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Interior door trim panel removal
#770371
12/07/06 10:56 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Hi guys,
I realize this isn't a terribly exciting topic... But I need to remove the door panel on the driver's door to inspect / lubricate the lock mechanism. (While I'm in there, I will lubricate the power window mechanism as well.)
Any suggestions on tools / techniques on getting the panel off without ripping up the interior? I tried a couple of forum searches, as well as checking the manual online.
Thanks,
Jerry
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Re: Interior door trim panel removal
#770372
12/08/06 12:36 AM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 43
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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Hi Jerry, depends on the model. What you got?
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
'94 LWB 2800, 91 SWB glass-top 2500, 92 SWB soft-top 2500
(You can NEVER have too many Mitsi's!!)
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Re: Interior door trim panel removal
[Re: Chris_Rob]
#770373
12/08/06 06:39 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,458
Trail Leader
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For my window crank handles, a thin long-handled screw driver was necessary. Otherwise, common sense, some fear of forboding, etc. may be needed. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />
1987 Raider - Roxy 1988 Mighty Max 2.6L Turbo - Pearl 1997 Mountaineer V8 - Freddy 2000 Excursion V10 - Freya
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Re: Interior door trim panel removal
#770374
12/08/06 01:34 PM
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,479
Roll Me Over
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Best thing I can say is, if you overthink ANYTHING you will break it... Goodluck! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Richard E 1989 Montero - Stock-ish 1989 V6 Auto Raider - 5.3 Vortech Swap. 1987 Mitsubishi Starion 2.6t, soon to be 3.5 1983 Honda XL600R
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Re: Interior door trim panel removal
[Re: Chris_Rob]
#770375
12/09/06 12:46 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Hi Rob,
95 LS, power windows and door locks.
Thank you,
Jerry
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Re: Interior door trim panel removal
#770376
12/09/06 04:39 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 410
Mudrunner
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Pretty straight forward, the only "special" tool I can recommend is an interior panel removal tool from just about any parts store. These are nothing more than thin,wide prying tools to slip behind the door trim panel and lift the panel off the clips that hold it against the door. Remove all the screws holding the trim panel to the door, there aren't that many, you'll have to remove the "covers" to some of them, but they're right there in front of you, look like round plastic covers, cause they are <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />. Once you have the screws out, you carefully work around the sides of the panel with your removal tool, getting those clips to pop out of their mating pieces. Disconnect the window switch from the backside of the panel once you have it loose, there's usually good access to the connector on the backside. Don't bother trying to pry the switch out of the door panel from the front/top side. You'll usually only break something if you're having a bad day. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> If you're working in cold temps, you'll snap more plastic door/trim panel clips. It really helps to have the interior warm, like 50 degrees or better , so try to get a warm garage for work like this if you can help it. Worst case is that you have to track down a few door panel clips from a parts store or a dealer. With the panel off, you should see a clear plastic sheet attached to the metal door itself. This is your water shield or shedder, keeps water from damaging the fiberboard that many door panels are made out of. Keep it intact as much as possible, be gentle when peeling it away from the door. Small rips and tears are easily handled by using clear packing tape to repair the shedder, or duct tape if you want. Avoid using masking tape, it tends to not hold up over time with this, and the tape adhesive usually fails before the tape does. If you're totally missing the factory shedder from a bad previous owner or tech[ <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />], then make one out of kitchen shelving paper, also known as contact paper. Has adhesive already attached to one side, with a cover that you peel off as you go. Hope this helps you out........ <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
'92 SR Montero, Green, with 31" Yokohama Geolandar A/T Plus Tires, Mitsu factory fog light kit, on-board air compressor,Sony Radio and 10 disc changer. 213K and counting..... Stock & Happy otherwise
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Re: Interior door trim panel removal
[Re: Houston]
#770377
12/12/06 05:36 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Cool - thanks for the advice, Houston. I'll wait for things to warm up a bit, and will dig in...
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Re: Interior door trim panel removal
[Re: Houston]
#770378
12/12/06 06:42 PM
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 16,227
Web Wheeler
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Remove all the screws holding the trim panel to the door, there aren't that many, you'll have to remove the "covers" to some of them, but they're right there in front of you, look like round plastic covers, cause they are <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />. IIRC, on my 90 (1st gen) I have 2 screws holding the arm rest and one screw holding the plate for interior door pull. The switch panels all came off easily if pried away carefully from the door panel. As was noted, don't force it. If anything, take a picture of where you're at, circle what's not coming undone and post it here. I'm sure someone will have done it before and will give you more insight on how to remove it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> HTH.
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Re: Interior door trim panel removal
[Re: off-roader]
#770379
12/12/06 10:16 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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May just take you guys up on that - thank you again.
Hey, one more question (while I'm imposing my "newbie status" on everyone) - the power locks act funny on my truck. Specifically, I have trouble unlocking all of the passenger doors using the drivers unlock button - the locks pop up then pop back down. Is something out of adjustment that I should look for?
Thanks again, guys! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
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