Last winter I started to get a wierd noise coming from the front somewhere after I had put my runner in 4 wheel drive while in the Snow/Ice in Tahoe. Kind of like built up snow and Ice rubbing. But there was none. After inspecting it I thought it was a half shaft b/c it had some play, so I replaced that, but it wasnt. Then it started doing it while I was out of the snow/cold weather. someone told me it wasnt out of 4x4 completly, that seemed to work, for a while.

But now This year while in Tahoe (in ice and snow), it started again while I was in 4x4.

Question #1 do you think my front differential could be going out/ low on fluid, theres no leaks from the diff. (I know I need to check the level b/f asking. sorry)

Question #2 I just put in a new clutch and now its hard to shift into reverse after the truck is warmed up. cold its most of the time easy. And every now and then driving down the road it can be difficult to shift into any gear. I did not open the clutch lines. Could it be I still need to bleed the system??

Year of truck makes a big diff in Q#1 answer.

Q#2 answer Yes. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/clutchmaintenance/

oops, thought I put it in there. Well my Runer is a 1990 V6 4x4.

and I have a full front Differential with clean fluid.

What you might want to do to find the noise while in 4wd is see if a friend will help you; get the truck on jackstands (4), put the truck in 4wd, and into gear, running (no beer drinking while doing this)

You can put a mechanic's stethescope or a long screwdriver up against the pumpkin; if things are okay, you should hear the gears spinning smooothly. If it's uneven, you might have to do some more investigating; could be a carrier bearing is on its way out.

Shifting got real hard today, I couldnt even get into 1st gear at one point. NO grinding noise though, and now I cant get the 4runner started by pushing in the clutch alone, I have to use the clutch cancel switch.

I bled the line and its still doing the above.. Please any suggestions?

I think your clutch pedal bracket broke... Now the clutch switch isn't being activated, and you have to hit the bypass.

This also shortens the throw of the clutch, and causes hard shifting.

where is the clutch pedal bracket? I cant find it in the FSM.

More info on the clutch problem.

So after replacing my clutch

1. I had difficulty shifting into reverse, it would grind. I could get it in reverse by shuting off the engine and shifting before starting. So I adjusted peadal hight/freeplay, and push rod freeplay. Reverse still the same after adjusting.

2. Normal shifting was fine at first. Then progressively started to get difficult while moveing. Later it got difficult while parked. (I had not bleed the system yet b/c I had not opend the lines)

3. Finally It got nearly impossible to shift into 1st and 2nd while parked, (no grinding) just cant get it in gear. (I bled the line, still have same symptoms.)

4. Now it wont even start while the clutch is pushed in. I have to hit the clutch cancel switch. But cant shift into gears still. Unless I shut the engine off and then shift into 1st, but it can be difficult sometimes but easy other times.

Up where you are adjusting freeplay... Under the dash.

The bracket is what the clutch pedal itself mounts to. A cracked bracket is not an uncommon occurrance.

I believe this is what DRTDEVIL was trying to point to

clutch bracket

Only other thing I can think of is if the SHIFTER BUSHING is shot. Easy to replace; use Yota parts. Parts sticky is in the Early Trucks section.

Yep, my Bracket is cracked. Ill repost as to if it solves my problem when IM done replacing it.

thanks for the help.

P.S. I replaced the shifter bushing when I did the clutch. It was deffinetly shot. Small chunks of rubber everywhere.