Is it documented anywhere on what's involved in doing the headgaskets on a 3.0 (1992)? I need to change the knock sensor and wire I know but is there a step by step list of what to do? Is it worth it to send in the injectors as well, I have 148k on the dial. Where do I get the gaskets, head bolts, etc...? New "O" rings for the injectors I would assume. I'll be doing the timing belt as well, I've done that before. Should I get the heads redone or just mill them flat? I had the HG's done (Toyota recall) at 48,000 miles. I get the air bubbles in the heater when I turn it on and it's been burped, they keep coming back. I also have a small coolant/oil leak from behind the engine that I can't locate. It looks like it's coming from the rear of the drivers side head. I'm going to be doing a compression test before I dive in to double check and see where I stand. Any other ideas from someone who's been there? Doesn't seem too hard, just complex, do to all the stuff that needs to come off. Thanks for your help.

There is a FSM for a 93 at the top of this page, same thing.


http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

The FSM at the top of the forum is your best bet, though it can be done with a chilton's and haynes, neither one had all of the info when I did mine back in '04. I would send out or take the injectors in to have them rebuilt, locally it cost me about $32/injector, they were flow tested and balanced. Others here have sent them to places that rebuild for as little as $11/injector. I would also take the heads to a shop(one that preferably deals with toyota's) and have them gone through.

IIRC, enginebuilder.com has non torque-to-yield head bolts for the 3.0. I think RouschoffRoad used them.

You can get HG's from the dealer, or in a quality engine gasket kit.

As far as the job goes it isn't that hard, a lot more mental than physical(until the head removal). Take plenty of pics/video as you go along, I made diagrams of where things went as I removed the parts, I also used cardboard to hold the bolts in the order they came out along with the pieces the bolts went to. It took more time, but I knew it would be a couple of weeks between tear down and rebuild. All the extra prep work made the rebuild a breeze, not one problem on re-assembly.

The only problem on tear down you should find is removing the cam bolts, you have to use a ot of force to break them loose. You will need a large wrench(IIRC, it is a 1-1/4) and a 2"x4"x18"to hold the camshaft in place. You place the 2x4 on top of the passenger side upper A-arm to brace the wrench against, to remove the passenger side cam gear bolt. To remove the drivers side place the 2x4 ontop of the block between the heads.

The crankshaft pulley also needs to come off. I made my own counter holding bar, other here use the starter with a socket/ratchet braced against the frame method to brake it loose.

You might want to remount the pvc valve out from under the air intake on rebuild, this will make it easier to get to in the future. I would use gasket sealant along with the valve cover gaskests as they are prone to leakage.

Also if you have ever considered installing headers, now would be the time to do it, I wouldn't have wanted to installed mine with the engine complete.