I've heard of folks replacing their factory intake tubes with PVC, or whatever.
Anyone have pics of that?
Is there any benefit?
I already have a header-/exhaust, would a bigger intake be any benefit?
Or some kind of mod to the airbox? All the deckplate mod things seem to bo oriented towards V6's
Thanks!

Brian

All I did was chop a few inches off the stock air tube, fab up a bracket for the AFM and ordered up a custom-dimension K&N filter. Cost about $50, including the filter. Here's a pic:

Mine was a few step smore than Vanilla's.

Here's a shot:


AFM is from an '82 Supra. 82-82 have the same pin/wiring at the connector, but a 3" opening. Then just used a 90 deg elbow w/ 2.5 on one end, 3' on other. The throttle body is really more like 2.75" but it stretches ok.
Then to make room, movedt he battery to the other side, behind coolant bottle.
Dos it help? A little. I have the LCe header/2.25" exhaust. My MPGs went up.

Hey Ratty, why's the AFM upside down?

It looks like the only way it would clear the hood.

Just a quick observation but wouldn't you be better of sheilding the pod air filter from the rest of the engine bay. This way it would only suck in fresh, hot air from the front of the truck and not the hot air from under the hood.

Here's mine:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Snorkel.shtml#Phase-II

I'm not using an AFM, so mine doesn't exactly apply..




I'd like to suggest that there *might* be more improvement in a cold air intake design over replacing the tubes on the intake.

There 3 main places where you could have flow issues:
1) Hole to the airbox.
2) AFM size itself
3) TB

The stock TB is 55mm, just a bit over 2". Opening it up in front of that is going to be of limited benefit unless you're running a larger TB (and porting your upper plenum in association with that mod). You can use a 5m or 7m TB with a bit of creativity to get to a 60mm TB.. If you choose to do that, use a late model (1988.5+) plenum, it's less restricted.

I mention cold air intake because monitoring intake air temperatures on an OEM 22RE indicate temps of over 100 degress, ~115 when at operating temperature when the outside air is around 70-75. Basically, that means that cool fresh air isn't making it into the air box, it's being preheated by the engine...

I like rodger's snorkle.. That might be an excellent way to get cooler denser air.

Heres mine using a Supra AFM with a shortened syle intake with the battery on the driver side.

Very simple. As you can see in Vonka's pic, if you flip it over so it's right-side up, the connector is in the front. I ran my extended cable areound the back of the engine bay, and low and behold came up sbout 2" short of length enough to connect it in the front. could have worked, but would have been tight, don't like that. So i just flipped the whole manifold over.
That side of the engine definitely is a LOT cooler than the stock spot, esp with the LCE header.

Looked at your pic and thought that was my engine compartment. I have mine painted teh same color... Only diff in my is the valve cover is painted blus as well