This is for Steve and Adam F. I know you guys used to run those big old LC shocks and flexed like mad, but had problems. It helps alot, but the problems suck. I want to know everything that went wrong with you guys. I would like to put some LC shocks back there, but i need to know what im going to do first so i can make sure nothing goes wrong. I am having a custom gas tank skid made, and we will deff make it to clear the d-shaft, so i dont think that should be a problem. also, if i remove the rear sway bar, or just disco both sides of the rear every time i wheel, should i be fine with sway bar issues. Also, since i will get the increased travel, i should prob. get some a larger brake line, and recomendations on where to get that?
Thank you for the help, i tried to search, but i didnt get anything from when you guys ran them.

FYI- i dont run a rear swaybar, ever.

you will prob need to fix the panhard if you run the LC shocks, that will help with the D-shaft issue, although i dont think Fertig corrected his panhard.

are you gonna run Billy LCs or Elmo LCs?

I would have to see numbers on the two, I mihgt run OME LCs if they have around the same numbers, i will have to see. It would be nice keep it all OMe in the back.

Also, i have been reading more and more, and i think that if the new skid is super tight, and mabye alittle pounding on the tank itself, i think that will work.

The only way it will would be to move the gas tank to where the spare is, You will need spidertrax arms, you'll blow out the stock lower contrl arm bushings, You'll destroy the sway bar and you'll need a longer rear brake line.

Most important the gas tank must be moved. Notching it or a skid will not solve the problems.

Oh yeah, any LC rear shock is going to be valved completly wrong and the truck will ride very very stiff.

I would look at the generic 5100 Bilstein series.

Couldn't he downsize to a smaller tank?

Or a thinner shaft?

If you can some how quantify an amount of contact, you ought to be able to lose at least 1/2" in driveshaft diameter with a custom shaft, just in case you are talking about being really close to making it work.

This is in addition to the obvious brake line, skid plate and panhard considerations.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by EClayton08:
<strong>Couldn't he downsize to a smaller tank?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Yes. Thinner would work. Look at how much room is between the muffeler and the drive shaft, you need that much between the tank and the drive shaft.

The tank hangs down too far for some of the 4/5 trails with waterfalls out here.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Big_Flygt:
<strong>Or a thinner shaft?

If you can some how quantify an amount of contact, you ought to be able to lose at least 1/2" in driveshaft diameter with a custom shaft, just in case you are talking about being really close to making it work.

This is in addition to the obvious brake line, skid plate and panhard considerations.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Nope, this is a 2nd Gen trick that will not work here. 1/2" is not going to do anything. You need a good solid 2-3"

If I were going to do it again, and do it right, here's what I would do.

Make new upper and lower shock mounts. With the longer can on the LC shocks it is impossible to mount them in the stock location without causing some harm. First off, you have to compress the heck out of the shocks to get them in place. I beleive this is the main reason why they are so stiff. (although I thought they rode great, I never complained)Also this is probably why the one Steve sold me had a leak. They bottomed out and the seal bursted. Basically, you would need to fab up a metal rod that would be welded in between the frame rails and allow you to mount the upper shock mounts. This way they are not as compressed as they are in the stock location. Also you would need to weld on some lower shock mount tabs on top of the axle, in the center. Here is a pic of what I'm talking about:

<img src="http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig/posts/shockmounts.jpg" alt=" - " />

And I probably would go with a different shock than the LC ones. Something maybe a little longer with eye mounts on both ends. Maybe Rancho 9012's that can be adjusted.

Next I would somehow raise the gas tank as much as possible, and build a new skid plate for it. I havent looked under a 3rd gen lately, so I'm not sure it would be possible. On a 1st gen, with a body lift, you can simply cut off the old mounts and weld on new ones, higher up. This requires a body lift though. Search Roger B's website for this method.

I would also drop the panhard bar with a bracket like Steve made.

Also a set of the spidertrax control arms like Steve has.

Also make sure you secure the coil springs in the mount. They will fall out if you dont. Maybe some longer, progressive rate, custom coils would help here.

I would also explore fenderwell mods. Find someway to inconspicuously cut away at the inner fender to allow the tire to stuff further in the wheel well.

Ditch the swaybar completely. You don't need it.

Hope this helps, ask if you have any more questions.

<small>[ February 11, 2003, 12:35 AM: Message edited by: Adam F ]</small>