I made a post a few weeks ago about this, but I have since had the head checked for warpage and replaced the head gasket with a felpro. It is still leaking oil into the #1 cylinder. I have just rebuilt the engine and had the head rebuilt also. I put close to 750 miles on it when it started cutting out and come to find out the # 1 plug was covered in oil and it was even coming out between the exhaust manifold and the head. So I pulled the head had it checked and replaced the gasket and still having the same problem. I also bought a new torque wrench and followed the instructions to the "t" on tightenning the bolts back down. Any Ideas. The only thing I can think of now is either the Rings or the valve seals.

Might want to check the o-ring on the #1 jet valve. The only thing left would be the piston/rings on the #1 cyl (maybe a stuck oil control ring). Does it have good compression?

Did you also check the block deck for warping?

How would you check the o-ring. Just pull off the valve? I do have extra o-rings and valve seals. I took the block to the machine shop and had them do work on it when I first built it. I also put a straight edge on it and check it. I hate to have to tear it back down again to check the rings on that cylinder. I will try to check the compression this afternoon. It runs good though untill the plug gets covered in oil.

You'll need to pull the valve cover and pull the cam tower/rocker shaft assembly. Just loosen all the bolts slowly using a pattern from the outside most bolts to the center bolts. Don't forget the two short bolts way back by the firewall (I just remove them first then slowly loosen the longer cam tower bolts evenly). DON"T just lift the whole assembly as the lash adjusters may fall out of the rocker arms. I saw some guys mention sliding cut off rubber glove fingers over them to hold them in place. I just carefully lifted each rocker, one at a time, and pulled them out by hand and kept them in order. Once that's out of the way a deep 14mm socket will let you remove the jet valve assembly and check the o-ring.
Reassemble in reverse and I think the torque is 11-14 ft.lbs on the cam tower bolts (again, snug them down evenly in a center out pattern then torque to final spec).

I think I've been spreading some bad info.

The oil gets to the head on my lube diagram from an 89 Starion manual (which should be the same except for the oil cooler and turbo oil line stuff, which is all external) from the dside rear head bolt bore. The oil passage is right by the bore, and the head has a cavity to let the oil get to the head bolt bore, from which it enters the rear upper cam bearing, and then to the rocker shafts which feed the rockers, the cam squirt hole on the underside of the the rocker, the cam bearings, and by leakage out of the front cam bearing, lubes the timing chain and dizzy drive/driven gears.

Therefore, a leak in the front cylinder is from the valve stem seal/guide, the jet valve oring/stem seal, or rings, and can not be a head gasket leak from oil passage to cylinder as I suggested in your other post.

I would further suggest that while you have the rocker shaft off, you install a set of jet vavle eliminators, which are special bolts with orings that seal off the jet valve shroud in the combustion chamber from oil and air leaks. The jet valves tend to break off the heads of the vavles themselves, letting the stem jump up into the thrashing cam, valves/springs, and rockers. Mine managed to break a rocker, and hosannah that that was all. Runs just fine without them.

Rocker arm install note!!!:

Note the mating face of the upper and lower sections of the rear cam bearing. No gasket here. Pressurized oil goes thru here to the rocker shafts at gauge pressure. You have to put a light smear of rtv on one/both surfaces on clean metal before you bolt the caps back down, or you'll have an oil seep leak. You also have to make sure the perimeter of the rear rubberish cam bore seal (mitsu calls it the "circular packing") is also rtv'ed. Also use a dab of rtv in the square corners where the valve cover gasket jumps up over the rear cam bearing.

I'm puzzled by the oil at the head gasket outer side, but suspect a different valve cover or timing cover oil leak. You are also supposed to put a smear of rtv over the top of the timing cover/block joint, where the timing cover gasket butts up to the bottom of the head gasket. If you don't, and you don't do a razor trim of any protruding timing cover gasket too, you can get a slung oil leak there off the cam sprocket against that area from the inside of the timing cover.

Thanks for the info. I will take a look at that o-ring tonight if possible. That's a great idea about the rubber gloves over the lifters. They are a buger when removing the rockers. As I had to do several times. I also found out about the touch of sealant on the rear cam bearing, after I couldn't figure out where all the stinking oil was coming from on the rear of the engine, and thought I had a leaky rear main and was all ready to pull the trans to replace it. I am glad I read into some of these forums and went back and looked at the manual again. I really do hope it is the o-ring. Can you put the illuminator kit on w/o removing the head.

You sure can. I just put on on my 87 2.6L. It popped the #2 jet valve and luckily did not eject the stem into my cam or valve train. I got them for 19.95 shipped in three days from http://www.enginemachineservice.com/conquest.html (it was from ohio to PA so shipping may be more depending on where you're located).

Thanks for the websight, checked it out and if that is the problem I am going to order them. Either way I guess I will, even if it is something else, I will have to do it eventually. Mine as well do it while I am working on it.

It's possible but tricky to flip the rockers vertical as you lift the shafts/caps, if you have enough finger spread for one hand on each side. I've done it that way, but the glove fingers are much easier. Loosen the cap bolts first.

Another hint. Do not fully loosen any bolt. About three turns on each, then repeat, to let the shaft rise evenly against the valve spring pressure. Possible to bend a rocker shaft or bolt, especially the end ones.