I've heard the problems w/ heat from the headers burning through floor boards etc...Is header tape a viable solution?

Don't know about the floorboards. I was concerned with heating something up in the engine bay. With a little bending, I fit the outside half of the stock heat shield/enclosure onto the header of my '80 20R.

Radiant heat from the header will kill your starter, so you shoul get a starter shield blanket from Summit racing, runs about $24.

Along with the starter blanket I ran heat shielding along the passenger firewall, since there was only 1/2" of clearance between it and the header. A 2" BL or beating of teh firewall would have allowed for more room, however I installed the headers first. IIRC, the extra material from teh starter blanklet worked for all of teh other shielding that was needed. The blanket is good up to 750 degrees of contact heat so it can sit right against the header.

The p-side header also burnt the parking brake lin, melted the plastic coating to the cable and wouldn't disengage the brake. After getting a new cable, I rerouted it and used some heat shielding.

Header tape can solve a lot of heat related problems and reduce engine bay temps, but can also cause header rott which will void a manufacturers warranty.

I have been running the headers now for 3yrs and haven't had any heat related issues, other than the ones mention, however I run an lectric fan which runs all the time, so this may be why.

Good info...Thanks

i was wondering how hard it was to install the downey headers on a 3.0. ill be getting them within the next month or two, and wanted to know any problems, tricks or tips to mounting them. thanks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

With a 1"-2" body lift, it'll be easier:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/downeyheaders/

A 2" BL would make it a lot easier, however if you don't want the BL, you could lift passenger's side of the body up off of the frame so you can work through the wheel well. The driver's side is easier to access so you shouldn't have to lift it. Without a BL you should hammer back the firewall about an .5-1" on the passenger's side for clearance

Even with a BL, I would recommend removing the intake manifold so you can get at the top of teh header bolts easier. Removing teh intake manifold should allo you enough to room to be able to pass the passenger side header down from above, and will also help with th removal of teh old manifold and x-over pipe. You may also want to consider using studs instead of bolts. I haven't had a problem with the bolts comming loose yet, but others have.

I would have flangers welded onto the headers or the ball/socket type connectors for ease of removal down the road.

What are these? im a little confused... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />