I need some info on fabing up a braket to mount my IFS box on a 1980 Toyota.
Last year I ripped the Torque Rod right off the chassis(stock push pull set up). So now I have a big square hole. I looked at Marlins kit and I would have to fab up a plate for the back side to cover up the hole and mount my IFS box at the same time.

What size tubing/ length would I need to make the spacer and I need inside diameter as well?
Does anyone have a full size templete that can pass along my way. Making a templete seems easy enough to make. Just not sure how far forward and up to place it. I haven't got my Hi steer yet....so I would have to wait on that. I plane to use rears up front in addition to my front spring pack. I will be installing a drop hanger up front for a little more lift. Moving the drop hanger forward enough to get a better angle on the rear shackle if need be. My thoughts are to keep the leafs flat as possible to get more flex and not so much of a huge arch and loose flex.
Mike
thanks for any input....simple questions I know just that, I really need to know what size tubing to get and how thick do I need it? I too the stock IFS mounting bolts...would I need to get longer ones?

Bolt sleeves big unough to fit the bolts through, stock is 12mm, 1/2" will fit. I think 3/8" pipe will suffice, may need to bore it out to clear a 1/2" bolt. I made a plate for a damaged inner frame rail after the original AllPRo box install failed:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/CrossoverSteering/index.shtml#SteeringBoxReinforcement

and later added a plate to the outside of the frame:



Use the box as the template for the plate, shove the box as far forward as you can get it.

4crawler....moving your axle forward...did you have to cut some of your rad. support to push the IFS box more forward or did you just move it forward as far as it would go without cutting the rad. support? I plane to use the main leaves off some 87 rears and build it up from their.
I notice your pitmen arm... who makes that?
Mike

I plane to plate both sides and sleeve all three bolts. The plates I plane to fab will cover all three bolts. The back plate will be longer to cover up the square hole and cap off the top of the plates....kind of joining them together at the top. I think that should be strong enough. On the welding part....Are you saying to weld just the top and bottom(plates) on both sides...or weld the plates all up. I'm not sure I get the stress point you said.....about just welding the top and bottom.

My box is as far forward as it can go w/o major cutting. I did have to notch out a bit of the sheet metal up front to access the p/s line fittings:


Allpro pitman arm.

On the welding, you want to avoid long vertical weld beads as you create a stress riser there due to the abrupt transition from the ~1/8" thick frame steel to the now ~3/8" or thicker steel with the plate installed. So I mainly weld along the top and bottom of the plates and any places that go down the frame, I try to either have the plate angled or somehow break up the long bead. So for example weld down 1" from the top and up 1" from the bottom and leave a 1" gap in the center.

I plane to round the ends of the plates. Thanks for the pic. I like your drop hanger on your link. I just feel adding a drop hanger will give me more space between the spring and the chassis for minimal lift. The largiest I plan to run is 35" tires. I ride with alot of FW trucks on 44's. I would like to keep my rig small and show them that bigger isn't aways better.
Mike

Yep, dropped hanger a big help with the rear spring up front. They flatten out so far that the springs hit the pitman arm and even the nut on the steering box. Adding 2.5" of clearance there helps and also counters the caster angle change from the longer spring shackle.

I agree 100%. All I need is to go pick up some 2.5 square tubing. I have everything else to fab the hanger up here at home. I'm going to tack it the way I need it and have a friend weld it up. I don't rust my welding in that department.
Thanks again,
Mike