Buy it and enjoy the hell out of it - if it was cared for.
I have a '97 with 175k on the ticker and it does occasinally make some noise at idle. The is a simple fix posted somewhere and I have it printed and stuck in my glove box. As I recall is just gradually revving the motor to 3000 rpm over 15 seconds then letting it drop to idle for 15 seconds, gradually revving it again for 15 seconds, etc. until the sound goes away. It usually tkes 10-20 cycles to shut it up.
The rev/idle fix is simple, and the noise should go away if its the valves.
The rear door issue sounds like a simple fix, just take it apart and see what broke, JB weld/glue it or buy a new part and reassemble - no worries.
Unfortunately, and something you should be more concerned about, you need to take off the intake plenum to do a compression check of the left (driver's side) bank of cylinders (not something a dealer or seller joe will just let you do, and its kind of a pain anyway), but I believe you can get to the plugs in the right bank of cylinders to test the compression and check the plugs (the plugs are good for about 90k, but expensive little suckers, at $20 or so buck a pop for the RIGHT ONES, to replace) - that way at least you have an idea of how healthy 1/2 of the motor is.
I believe the highest compression for this motor new was 160, but I may be way off. With that many miles, even compression is what I'd look for between 130 and 150, but no greater than 5-10 off between each cylinder - even compression. Someone chime in if I'm dispelling misinformation.
Make sure the oil was changed regularly (and with what kind of oil - I use only Mobile 1 10-30), as was the timing belt. The timing belts last 90k, after that you're on borrowed time. The tranny fluid should be changed at with the timming belt and should shift nice and solid - if it slipps, that's a major issue. The tranys are pretty much bullet proof, but when they go - that's a few grand buh by.
Your cam plug seals will probably need to be done too if they haven't been already, and they're a major source of oil leak streaks behind the motor and onto the tranny, cross members and skid plates.
Oh, I almost forgot, I had an exhaust manifold go (crack) at 170K ish miles (right side), so that my be the source of your ticking? $50 at the local junk yard for a new one and I was back in business.
If you or anyone is interested, my wife wants me to get a new car, so I'm willing to part with mine for whatever a dealer will give me in trade - so I know it's going to good home rather than an auction. I was planning on hitting a Car Max in a week or two to see what kind of price they'd give me (I'm hoping for $4k, but we'll see - I advertised it on auto trader a few months ago for $6500 and not one phone call or e-mail) and I'll pass the savings along to the first person with cash in hand.
I've been toying with parting it for some time now, but this should happen in the next few months now that I have access to a spare vehicle and can shop around for a new ride. I will miss my monty, the reliablity and the 4x4 adventures we've had together, but it is time for me to move on to newer and less maintanence. I'll still get a 4x4, but it'll have to be a little softer core (Pathfinder or 4Runner) with better dealer support/parts availability.
Anyone interested, feel free to call or email (714)234-4907 or [email]jlc@lgwlaw.com.[/email] If not, it goes to Car Max and the big auto auction in the sky . . . and hopefully home to Mexico where it'll serve someone very well.
Take care,
Jim
