what to do?? i know i gotta release the break first before i can get the drum off..

turn the bleed valve to release residual presure. If it is a mechanical part failure, you might have to use some sort of puller to take the hub off. If it still refuses, you might have to cut it off with torch or break it with a sledge hammer.

You can also use a pair of M8-1.25 bolts into the threaded holes on the drum to help pull it off. Use ~2" long bolts, liberally coast w/ anti-sieze and turn maybe 1/2 turn at a time, alternating between the two. Also, can back off the star/adjusting wheel with a screwdriver through the slot in the backing plate if the shoes are out too far.

what would you say is the mostlikely cause.. i left my parking break on before i putting in storage so im g uessing its the return spring?

Are the cables taunt?

Try tapping the part where the cable connects at the wheel to to get it to come unstuck.

well there is a oval rubber plug near the bottom of the backing plate. pull it out.
you will need two screw drivers, flat. one (regular size 1/4 inch or so. and I like to use a smaller one about 1/8th inch.

reach in with the 1/4 inch one, you are feeling for a star wheel. prying up or down, (memory fails me) you will hear it click as it turns. that is the wrong way. keeping the 1/4 inch screw driver on it. feel around close to it. you are trying to reach under the bolt that the star wheel is mounted on. you will feel a plate that will give when you push on it. hold it there and go the OTHER way they you went the first time.with the wheel using your 1/4 inch screw driver. turn it a bunch of times. you are only turning it about one quarter turn with each movement.

now try to pull the drum off. This is assumeing that you have it loose and it is hanging up on the brake shoes.

if it is still hung up repeat the above.

if you have not broke it loose yet.
do the wheel thing, then go after the bolts like 4 crawler said.
if I remember right these are the same bolts that are under the edge of the hood and hold the fender on. use two of them and don't strip them or the holes out. just snug down and (firmly) tap around the out side of the drum. check the snuggness on the bolts again and tap some more.

once the center breakes loose then it is just the shoes catching on the worn lip of the drum... back under and more wheel work. if the drums are getting tighter you went the wrong way.

I hope that is what you were asking and I have given you an answer that reads, as what I am trying to explain.

If the wheels won't turn, then the shoes may be rusted (or frozen if cold) to the drums. See if you can break the wheels loose w/ engine power.

ok... one more thing and this is something that I have done......
make sure the parking brake is off... even to the point of tapping on the ebrake levers where they go into the backing plate.
also maybe pull the little pins on and take the emergency brake cables off.

well the arm that the ebreak cable attaches too doesn't come off the drum on one side.. and on the other side i can pull it back..

I always need to whack the drums with a sledge hammer to get them off. Always as in I if I have the drums off, put them on, blink, and goto take them off after I blink.. I need the sledge hammer. Hit the sides of the drum while pulling it outwards with your other hand... you should see it moving ever so slightly each whack - can take a while.

Of course do what everyone else mentioned before you take out the sledge hammer in case the brakes are in fact frozen against the drum. Either way, I'm guessing the sledge hammer will be used <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

-Scerb