Well, it's smog time again here in California. Bastards. Every year I have troubles and now have to go to a test only. I'm going to beat them at their own game this time!!

I'm putting a can of SeaFoam in the oil and a can in the tank. I'll run that for a while, then change out the oil and the plugs just prior to going in for a pretest.

I've been running a bit of Sea Foam (actually, a lot) through a vacuum line to clean up the combustion chambers. I've noticed that no matter how much I run through, the motor smokes like I'm burning coal instead of gasoline. Compression was at 180 +/- 2 when I checked it at the last smog problem 2 years ago. I figured there was some build up in the combustion chamber and started using it then.

It's a 1992 pick up 4x4 extra cab (red) 22re with about 260,000 miles on it.

Things I've been wanting to do that may affect smog here in CA. A new EB head with oversized valves. I've got a TRD cam in it already and would swap that in. No, I don't need a new head but would be easier and faster to swap a new one in than send mine off to a machine shop.

I'd like to port the throttle body a bit. A good friend has a 3mm port on his and that motor seems to respond a bit nicer/smoother/snappy whatever you want to call it. I have no idea if this will be a smog problem. Besides, I've never taken off the throttle body to clean it. I've gone in there with a little brush and cleaned it as best I could while installed, but that's about it.

If I pull or have the head pulled, I may as well send the injectors out to be cleaned/balanced. That's never been done either.

I've also got about 150,000 miles on my timing chain. It's making a little bit of noise when cold, but not bad. I want to replace it for piece of mind.

Wow, I've yapped a lot! I meant to ask about the SeaFoam only. Will it stop smoking when the carbon is burned away or will it continue to smoke anyway? I'm off to the parts store. I'm surprised I can even buy this stuff in CA anymore. I hear it isn't legal to fart in CA anymore unless you have a catalytic converter installed in your shorts. I'll need to have that mod done too. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

** I took the truck in for the smog test with fresh oil, plugs, new Toyota plug wires, a can of Guaranteed to Pass, 1 tank of gas & a somewhat recent valve adjust. 2 years ago, I had a new cat installed and I replaced the front o2 sensor.

Today, the truck failed a pretest miserably. NO at 15 mph max is 1058, my truck measured 1496. NO at 25mpg max is 918 and my truck measured 1172. The truck was driven a bunch prior to the test.

The nazi running the test didn't like my headers or the K&N filter-that's OK, I don't like either of those mods myself, but they are legal and carry an EO number. I didn't have the numbers with me so I have to go back with that.

I've never replaced the rear o2 sensor-not in 260,xxx miles. I figure that's probably a good idea. I'm going to pull the EGR and replace it if it's not too expensive or attempt to clean it if it is expensive. I just had a new cat put on and checked out the old one. It was full of funk... kind of a black, oily slime. It's the same stuff that leaked out of a pinhole in my exhaust when I used the Seafoam. The exhaust shop said it was pretty contaminated and not to use stuff like Seafoam.

I don't know what else to do to get this thing to pass smog. It's never burned any oil and I maintain my vehicles better than most anyone else that I know. Every time I have to get it smogged there are problems and I'm just about fed up. Suggestions?

Seafoam will always smoke. 180 +/- 2 psi is actually optimal.

I wouldn't jump at the head and cam just yet... If you were borderline before on emissions, you will be thrown over the line by the mods. Wait until after the test.

Getting the injectors rebuilt would be wise. A new cat and o2 sensor would also help. Make sure the truck is driven for about an hour prior to the test, and try to go when it isn't busy... This helps the cat work more efficiently.

Good luck!

Sometimes it also helps to show up with an extra $20 bill in your pocket that you might leave behind.

(J/K of course)

I've already got the cam-had it for years. I'm always been close on smog. Usually I have to get a cat. Last time I had to get a cat and an o2 sensor. Plug wires from Toyota are 75 bucks! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> I wonder if they give you a fist full of sand with them.

I cleaned the throttle body today, put on the wires and new plugs. The cap and rotor have about 25,000 miles on them and should be fine.

I ran 1 can of SeaFoam through the motor, put one in the oil and one in the tank. I'll run tank or two of gas through it and change the oil.

I hope I don't need a new cat again. The muffler shop says they fall apart because of vibrations (long story) and going off road. Since I almost never go off road anymore I hope that's not causing any problems.

I can't find the vibration. It's been years... driveshaft has been replaced 2 times, pinion angle is perfect, tires are balanced... I'm thinking it's just the tires. I don't really care for the BFG muds anymore. The old style rode perfectly smooth. The new style sucks. I've had all 4 replaced under warranty for various issues.

Heck, I'd give the smog guy my sisters if they let me pass. I don't like CARB.

I'll run the hell out of the truck before the pretest and update this thread afterwards. It will probably be a week or two. Any further suggestions or ideas are always welcomed.

You don't want to do the actual test with it smoking.
If I remember correctly, with the new rules, any smoke will cause it to fail automatically. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Here in Ontario where they bust your balls as well, here is a little trick........Put some Isopropyl alcohol in the gas tank (rubbing alcohol) prior to your test ( let it run through your system prior to your test.) One litre or roughly one yankee quart for a tank full of gas. The alcohol will make the engine run lean because the fuel is oxygenated. After the test fill with fuel to diluite the alcohol. Here up north in the colonies we use alcohol as a gas line antifreeze. Isopropyl for fuel injected and methyl hydrate for carb engines. The only good thing up here is that e-testing not required for vehicles that are 20 yrs or older.

it would be a good idea to remove the complete intake and clean it out, they get full of sludge after years of use, it will probably help some.

move <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

I seafoamed at night. The whole col de sac looked like it was fogged over. Marine layer type thick. Initially, it'll smoke like crazy but it'll get less and less as the carbon is burned out. Keep the rpm up when spraying. There is a vacuum plug right at the throttle body. That's a good access hole.
Keep a new cat on the shelf for testing. Works every time!

We have the same thing in BC. My tips are
-Run injector cleaner in high octane fuel before the test since the high octane tends to have better cleaners in it.
-Run alcohol or blended fuel in the gas before the test. E10 is pretty standard around here.
-Run the truck hard on the highway as close to the test as you can.
Mine has the original cat and it blew 0 ppm hydrocarbons last year. I had to laugh since it was so hot as I pulled onto the dyno that the exhaust was making crackling sounds.