The stock idler arm sucks (we all know that, right?). The frame end bushings can be replaced, but the centerlink end of it cannont. The center link (aka relay rod) on the IFS is supposed to only move left and right, but there are up and down forces on it that make it want to rotate as well.

Here is what happens when your idler arm wears out. This is on my T100. The idler probably has 30k commuter miles on it and it hasn't even really been offroad.

http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n62/erikbeeb/?action=view&current=MVI_0805.flv
http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n62/erikbeeb/?action=view&current=MVI_0806.flv


When it rotates, the alignment (toe) changes. The idler arm is the only thing keeping it from rotating. The tie rod end in the end of it is designed to only spin, not pivot in all directions like a standard ball and socket style TRE (like in the end of the pitman arm). When this joint and/or the frame bushings wear, the center link is allowed to rotate and move up and down, affecting the toe.

Here is a stock idler arm TRE that I've cut apart. This is pretty severe, but you get the idea. I'm not sure where I got this one, but its not the one from my T100 that is probably in better shape. This one must have been REALLY sloppy!


Anyway, I finally got sick of these things wearing out and broke down and bought a Total Chaos idler. Its got two big roller bearings instead of a tie rod end, and uses bronze bushings at the frame. Its also made of chromoly steel. I don't think I'll be having any idler arm problems any time soon! It cost about twice what a factory idler cost, but should outlast one many times over.



I was going to show a video of this one "not" wobbling, but there was really nothing to see. It just moved smoothly left and right like it should and you couldn't really see anything. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I bought it from Poly Performance...
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=223

Anyway, I wish I'd put this thing in a long time ago. If you haven't yet and you intend to keep your IFS, I highly recommend it!

I've also dropped the coin on the TC idler. Quality piece! I like it has the extra mount under the frame, and it lines right up with a factory threaded hole.


I'm only concerned with the bearing here.


I run a lot of mud and water and I know that stuff isn't good for bearings, sealed or not. First trip into a mudhole and that area would be filled with the gunk.

This stuff gets everywhere <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />



So far what I've done is just pack the area around the bolt head with wheel bearing grease. I figured if it has something in place already, it wouldn't fill with mud.


Just a comment I thought I'd share about that piece.
Thoughts?

i bought one a year or so ago and i was very impressed with the strength of it. should have been my first mod....

I worry about water, mud, road grime, etc. sitting on top of that bearing too. I was going to cut a circle and RTV it on as a cap, but I haven't gotten around to it yet...

Just out of curiosity, in the pic of the stock idler taken apart: What is that cylindrical bushing made out of? It looks like plastic or rubber.

Also, do you think that drilling out the stock relay rod to fit the TC piece weakens it any (due to less material now there)?

Thanks.

The bushing is some type plastic like the frame bushings.
I don't think drilling the centerlink weakens it significantly. There is plenty of meat there.

erik,

did you drill the hole while the centerlink was on the vehicle?

I know you wern't asking me, but i drilled it while it was still on the truck. if i remember correctly, the drill bit was kinda expensive. and, as an interesting point, if you are going to get the recall relay rod, get it b4 you put the TC idler arm on. the local toyota wouldn't do the recall on mine since they would have to modify the relay rod...

I also fired up the drill while it was on the truck.

That pic illustrates nicely the design flaw in the Toyota design. The TRE's are able to put tremendous upward and rotational force on the centerlink in part due to how "out of line" they are with the idler... Looks like that TC part does a lot to address that!