I have the diesel version of Brians rig so the range is not such an issue as it is about double that of the gas rigs but I have been eyeing up one of the 22 gallon Ford van gas tanks kicking around the shop thinking it would fit easily where the spare goes on US models and not hang down at all.

Here's another picture of the rig and bumper. Joe, I don't blame your feelings on the bumper. It was a hard decision, whether I should go with Slee or ARB.

I decided to go with slee more for convienence than anything else. Place one big order for a bunch of stuff saved me on shipping and I knew his bumper would be easier for me to load up, carry home and install. I also had full confidence that it would be a good strong design for winching.

I worry about not having the full frontal coverage than I could get with an ARB, like when I'm out on some remote road and hit a deer or something. But I like the lightweight design, and much better approach angle.

Now that I've figure out a way to mount a full size hi-lift, plus a couple of lights, I'm pretty happy with it.

As far as the OME lift, I don't have the OME shocks yet unfortunately. I really agonized about whether to do the 2.5" springs, or OME low springs.

In the end, I think either set up would have worked fine, but the more weight you add, the less the stock or OME low lift springs can handle. I still have almost 100lbs of winch to add up front and probably another 300+ of gear and maybe more with a auxilery fuel tank and a lot more with a rear bumper and with that kind of wieght, you really do need something like a 2.5" heavy spring or more.

Even without the castor correction, I was extremely surprised at how it handles and drives with the lift. Almost better stock. I'll be interested to see what happens with the castor correction and shocks installed.

Here's some recent expedition mods. You can kind of see the rear African Outback drawers.

I removed one of the 2nd row seats and in it's place installed my refrigerator and storage for up to two 5 gallon water containers. I like these water containers, because their cheap and you can lay them down somewhere and you have an on off spicket. Also bolted down a fire extinquisher and some other stuff. All using existing factory bolt holes.

This makes the 7 seat Land Cruiser a 3 seater now (actually 3.5 seater, since you could cram two people in the remaining rear seat), but that's fine, because it's only my wife and I and I dont anticipate needing to carry more than 1 additional passenger. Plus, the seat can be bolted back in in minutes if I need too. There's also a ton of extra storage behind the driver's seat not in the picture.

Here's some of my original mods. I don't know if I posted these here or not.

My duel battery set up was one of the first things I did. It's simlier to the set up in my truck, but a little simplier. Two batteries, one factory 80-100 amp alternator.

The batteries are connected via a solenoid which I can control with a switch that turns it on/off/or on when the ignition is turn on. In most cases, I let the ignition switch the solenoid on and connect the batteries, so that they automatic disconnect when I shut the motor off. That way they can't discharge each other.

Just like my truck, the red battery powers all stock systems. The yellow top powers all auxiliery systems, including radios, gps, computer, off road lights, winch, etc.

I have heater hose covering the main battery wire for the extra, extra protection and a 200amp fuse at the red top end.

For those that don't know, the earlier FJ80s came with the battery mounted on the passenger side, while later models, like came with mounted on the driver's side. Well, once you relocate a few things like the wiper washer bottle, you can bolt up an early factory battery housing for a nearly factory looking duel battery set up.

These two pictures show a better view of the African Outback drawers which bolt to stock mounting points and have roll out drawers on bearings that can support more than 200lbs and don't rattle one bit.

The other is my center console, which will probably seem strange to some. One of the biggest issues was how to build a laptop mount in the cab without drilling holes. Nobody makes a laptop stand for the Land Cruiser. I figured out a way to adapt my homemake truck mount to the Land Cruiser if I removed the center console. I then decided if I might as well make use of the new open space, so I built a switch panel and added a bunch of other stuff.

The switch panel houses one volt meter which reads the auxiliery battery. The top switches, control the duel battery solenoid and a master switch to shut off power to all interior accessories. The side switch from top to bottom is, auxiliery radiator fan (that I also installed), rear strobe lights, and extra back up lights. There's also a couple of cig accessory plugs.

In the center console, I have a rechargable flashlight, my Ham radio and more cig plugs. Not pictured is a power inverter, CB radio and a few other things I've since added.

I also have power routed to the rear cargo area to a fuse panel, which will eventually power things like lights and more cig accessory plugs in the rear cargo area.

The laptop stand is rock solid using existing bolt holes. In fact, pretty much every mod I've done and plan to do will use existing holes, so it can be easily removed and not damage the rig.

That's all for now.

Looking awesome, Brian! As usual very nice and clean installs. And man you really got to work on that in a hurry.

I'm trying to keep weight down on mine so I can stay over 10mpg. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Actually it's not been a problem so far, but has led me to endless cyclical arguments about what to do. We're moving out to a little more rural area this fall and I'm thinking an ARB front is almost going to be a necessity due to the deer.

Do you have any plans for a rear bumper?

It's definately hard to keep weight down, when you start adding armor all over the place. That's one reason (besides money) that I'm waiting before I do any sliders or rear bumper.

You might consider OME's low lift suspension. If you're running stock springs, you're very like sagging at least 1/2-3/4 inch. The OME low lift give between 1/4-3/4" lift beyond factory height, depending on weight. It would go well an ARB and winch and sliders and you don't have to worry about castor correction. The lower lift will probably help maintain a little better mileage too.

Although, the 2.5" lift is likely better off road, as you don't have to worry about tires rubbing and more undercarrage clearance. I wish I had an oppertunity to explore both types of lifts. I think the low lift would work better on a daily driver that only does occasional wheeling. But then again, the handling even with this lift, is quite exceptional and I'm looking forward to seeing what it turns out to feel like after the castor correction and new shocks.



Probably. The reasons I hesitate to put on a rear bumper/tire carrier is cost, weight, and having the tire block my rear view. I had a tire carrier on the truck and yanked it off after realizing I couldn't see when backing up on the trails. It's also inconvient to have to swing the tire out everytime you want to access the rear.

On the other hand, I really want to install some kind of auxiliery tank and if I do, the spare has to go somewhere. And the only two options for is storing it inside where it takes up a lot of valuable real estate or on a rear tire carrier. The rear tire carrier would also make it more feasible to carry a full size and full width spare of the same brand that I have now instead of a skinny spare that I'm looking for now for under the truck for better clearance.

Wow! Your building my dream rig. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />