I finally got my weber 32/36 california legal carb and threw it on, figuring that it would smog real easily with the good efficient carb. WRONG! I failed with my NO(PPM) being 3478 @ 15MPG and 3275 @ 25MPH.

Any tips? My timing is dead on, I think the air/fuel is dialed in pretty well, valves are set, got a new catalytic converter, I put premium fuel in it, drove about 10 minutes to make sure the catty converter was red hot.

Could the EGR valve be doing this? I think I may have disconnected it when I put the new carb in, I was directed to cap off a bunch of vacuum lines, and some of it was confusing and I may have capped off the wrong thing.

Do you mean NOX?

High NOX is caused by an inoperative EGR.

If it is a CA smog equiped vehicle there is an air valve(below the front of the carb) that controls the amount of fresh air in the exhaust. I had high NO problem on an '85 I in '05, and the valve was the problem. Grab one from a wrcking yard if you can, they are expensive to buy from the dealer at $300+.

Did you ever get this to pass? I live in Portland, OR and they have DEQ emission testing in this county. My '84 4runner is a california emissions vehicle. It failed high carbon monoxide. Basically, unburned fuel. The little sheet they gave me said check...stuck choke, air/fuel mixture is too rich, smog pump, etc. I got a carburetor rebuild kit for $30, but I took one look at the directions and decided to return it and look into a weber carb. I want to know if it will pass though and just how tough it is to dial them in. I heard getting the jetting correct is tough.

We all do have to breath dont we?Besides the money is good too.NOX only forms at 2500+ degrees in the combustion chamber.Egr is an innert gas that cools combustion chanber.If the valve dont work,or your engine is overheating nox will form.I have seen bad thermostats,low coolant,plugged radiators,etc.Check your vacuum routing and make sure your valve is hooked up.Also what is your high nox limit?You can always richen up the mix if your marginally over the limit.It will cool down chamber and a fresh converter should wipe out any high HC's.Also,straight water with some dish soap will cool an engine drastically better than 50/50 glycol.Might be enough to get you through.

Update: Apparently I've been running too rich for quite a while so I had to replace the caddy and plugs, it almost passed. The C0 is too high. I think that I'll pass when I try again no problem though because I know my EGR is workin now, gapped my plugs a bit more because I've got an MSD, and used that gauranteed to pass stuff.

Unfortunately I failed the visual inspection because my truck is not a california vehicle and I need an air pump. I might just go around town until I find someone who doesn't notice. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

The other thing is this: I'm supposed to have my timing at 0degrees tdc with the vacuum lines disconnected and plugged correct? Well the guy at the smog shop had two books that said that the timing needs to be at 5deg btdc with the vacuum lines disconnected and that's a bummer because that'll increase my emissions.

Yeah it sure does, that is why we have all the emission controls on our vehicles. I want my grandson to be able to breath when I am long gone and he is my age!!!!!

84 FSM say 5 degrees BTDC only an underhood sticker saying otherwise would be acceptable in Calif.