So I posted about a month ago regarding some issues arising from a ball joint spacer job on a 97 t100. To help remedy some of those issues I'd like to lower my front diff an inch or so to decrease some of my cv angle but noticed that my drive shaft is pretty much sitting on my front crossmember already. Anybody every do a diff drop on one of these rigs, and if so how'd you deal with the crossmember? Already got the manual hubs dealt with. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thanks

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml#2ndGenDiffDropKits

That should work...

No way to do it unless you drop both crossmembers, similar to how the 4" kits do it but not as far. Rancho made a kit like that that dropped the diff 3" but not the LCA mounts.

The kit on the 4crawler site is for the later style IFS and would not apply to your T100.

You are probably at the ~3" lift point now if you've got CV vibes. My recommendation would be to un-crank your t-bars and do some minor firewall modification (hammering) to clear the tires, install a standard 4" lift kit, or un-crank your t-bars and install a bodylift.

Erik,

Shoulda listened to you the first time about the 4crawler stuff being for the later model T's. I asked Roger if they'd work for mine and he said they would, but I guess he hadn't actually tried em out. I bought em and there's no way they're going on. I must really be right on the 3" line because I'm not touching the fender wall at all, (did a pinch weld flatten), and everything clears really well at full drop and compression. The only problem seems to be 4 wheel drive and higher speeds. For now I'll guess I'll uncrank the T bars even though it'll drop my front a little lower than the rear.

Do you feel like those Ball Joint Spacers are going to do damage over time to my cv joints? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />Now that I have the manual hubs I'm defintetly reducing they're use, and like I read in an earlier post, the only time they're at they're maximum angle, they are also at maximum droop, minimum load, but should I be concerned about wheeling with 'em?

Thanks

Sorry, I thought the kit from 4Crawler would work too.

Exactly how much lift do you have, cause I am planning on doing the BJ spacers and cranking the torsion bars another inch to clear 2.5 inches.

The only lift I have is a small crank on the torsion bars, and 1.5 ball joint spacers. In the back just a couple of add a leaves, so I'm guessing I'm at about 2.5" total or so. The bj's are giving me some CV angle issues, but like I said, I'm gonna drop the torsion bars a little. I'm clearing 285 75/16's.

Doesnt sound to bad, you have bigger wheel diameter than I do-I am running 15" wheels now and will run 15" later on so it shouldnt be to bad I think

To clear the tires a bit more a 1" bodylift might work for you. Its in my gameplan if I cant fit 33x12.5 15's on there without my mildlift of 1.5" ball joint spacers, downey 26mm torsion bars, a leaf pack and shackles for the rear to give me 2.5" plus a 1" body lift.

A BJ spacer lift is nearly the same as cranking the bars as far as CV and steering linkage angles are concerned. In fact, its worse because it allows more droop than stock and therefore allows steeper angles than were possible stock.

I would strongly recommend against any cranking in addition to spacers. I think a small bodylift in addition to the spacers would be a much better option.

As far as CV wear, since you have the manual hubs and they'll probably be unlocked most of the time, I doubt that it will be a problem. If you're going to do any wheeling, CV strength will be compromised though because the more angle there is on the joint, the weaker it is under load.

The steeper steering angles will be especially hard on your idler arm. A Total Chaos arm will solve that problem though.

Rim to fender measurements are useful for comparing lift heights (need to factor in wheel size too though). I uncranked my bars about an inch w/ my 4" lift and I took before and after measurements that I'll post up when I'm at home sometime.

Yea Erik, see 1.5" lift overall using an add a leaf pack and the BJ spacers plus a 1" body lift will net you about 2.5"

This YT thread may be of some use, pay carefull attn to the member shiftless89's post. We already have more room and probably dont need to crank that much anyways.


Throw on some bigger tires, like going from 31" to 33" you also get more height. So now you have about 3-4" total.

You can always crank down the torsion bars if you find the cv angle is to great though. However I have heard of people tweaking the torsion bars and being just fine once they upgraded to bigger bars. I feel the bigger bars would put less stress on the CV and hold everything up better, plus you could always adjust them less-say the rear you had 2.5" well the front could be 1.75 or 2" overall. It is noticable a bit but once the rear settles a bit overtime I doubt its a problem.

Its also all in how you wheel it too. If your gonna go crawling to fly around everywhere your gonna break stuff.

I just talked to a guy on yota tech who is running BJ spacers, slightly cranked t-bars and a rear lift to equal it out. He said he has been on some modified trails and alot of offroading and hasnt had any problems yet.