2.5 years, 0 problems... But I have it relatively centered between the upper & lower bumpstops. I would suggest running little (if any) crank on your t-bars... Erik's right, the stress on your steering can be fierce.

Bigger t-bars don't place any less (or additional, for that matter) stress on your CV's - Doesn't do a thing... They simply hold your vehicle up easier & holds a set ride height without as much fuss.

Fwiw, it is possible to run 33x12.5's with just your t-bars cranked... Rubs a little, even with the body seam flattened & the mudflaps removed... Not too bad though. Ran that way for 2 years before throwing on the bl. I imagine 33x10.5's wouldn't do too bad, so long as they're on a wheel with less negative offset than the stock wheels.

So after pulling some rim to fender measurements, it turns out the rear add a leaf has settled about .5". I loosened my torsion bars enough to center everthing between the bumpstops which ended up being about .75" drop. Now my front and rear are both sitting level and I think I've solved my problems!<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> FYI I'm running 16" rims and I'm getting 14.5" from rim to fender with those 285 75 16's. I also removed the mudflaps and hammered down the pinch weld and I'm not getting any rubbing at full flex. So I think I'll bag the whole idea of dropping the diff and do a body lift down the road if the need presents itself. Thanks again guys.

They will drop overtime, so thus no worries in the end..

I at already at 15" all around front and back from the lip of my rim to the fender. Then again I have the old style SR5 15" wheels and 31's.

Check the height after having driven the truck forward and then again backward. Changing the height changes the toe setting and when the toe is out the suspension can get pushed up/down as you drive forward/backward. And you'll want to check the alignment after you've settled on the height too so that you don't get any abnormal tire wear.