A buddy of mine is looking at a 1990 4 clyinder 5-speed 4 Runner, 4wd and it's fairly clean, but has high milage.

It's got just over 200,000 on the clock.

Just for some info what should I be looking at as far as trouble spots?

Is this the 22re engine?

Does the 1990 still have the removable top?

The one to avoid if I'm not mistaken is the V6 3.0 because of the head gasket problems?

Thanks guys,
Joe

Yes



No, sorry. 1984 thru 1989 has the removeable top.



The 1990 may be OK, I cant recall the switchover year of the HG material that caused the problem. Someone will chime in.

Is it has the 2.4 4cyl motor (yes, that's the 22re), the 200,000 is not a big deal. That motor is a champ.

Find out if the owner knows anything about the guides for the timing chain (if 4cyl). The original and OE spec ones are plastic, and tend to wear out, leaving the chain loose and rattling (quite noisily) against the timing cover. There are replacement kits that use a metal guide instead, at 200k this may have been done already.

If yer buddy wants a removable top, just back up 1 year. IMHO those are SOOOO much cooler.

Thanks guys, are there any other trouble spots to look for, other than the timing chain guides?

If not I'd say he'll be buying, because the price is right.

Joe

If it leaks a little oil, it'll most likely be the front main seal. Less than $10 and 10 minutes. $25 if you need to add a speedy sleeve to the grooved crank pully.

He will probably end up changing any number of sensors. Throttle position sensors usually seem to die in the 150K range, maybe it has been replaced? )2 sensor might need it too. There are many more, and sensors are the only problems I have had with mine. Tell him to avoid replacing anything with bosch, and use either NGK or Denso ignition parts, and sensors.
Send him here too.

i own a 91 22re 5 speed 4runner. I only have 130k on the clock but just finished driving from Phoenix AZ to Nashville TN. didn't have a problem its a sold rig. not to quick but reliable. maintenance i have done on the thing recently...

-front rotors & pad's
-new water pump
-radiator
(radiator was only flowing 80% kinda funny never had a overheating problem even then. but i replaced it when i did the water pump. the pump started leaking so that started the investigation)
-02 sensor (didn't know when it was last done so i did it not because i had to but as preventative maintenance)
-battery (AZ kills batteries)
-CV joint boot
-tune up (spark plugs wires cap rotor ect.)
-regular oil changes


that may seem like allot but this car is 16 years old and runs like a swiss watch.
plus we are talking Toyota parts affordable!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
its a great rig as long as you don't mind a horrible 2 star crash test rating <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Cheers
R.

The 2 Star crash rating is more than you need for a head on collision. In '92 I was in a head on(as classified by teh CHP) in my '90, same one I have now. I was going 55 when the oncomming car swirved in front of me casuing me to T-bone it. I walked away with only 2 more herniated discs in my lower back, and other then a bent frame(behind the passeger front wheel) and of course cosmetic damage to the tune of $10k the truck was fine.

2yrs ago a friend of mine was involved in a head on in her '95 Runner with an '03 Escalade at freeway speeds, the escalade crossed over into her path. The two in the Escalade died upon impact, while she didn't walk away(had quite abit of damage to her feet) she did survived the crash.

I think the way our frames are built makes them pretty capable of dealing with impact from the front. If we got T-boned by anything tallish from the "70's, it would do us in or flip us over.

True, but then agian getting T-boned by anything bigger than you is bad regardless of what you are driving. Side air bags help, but not much when your head is at the same height as the bumper of the vehicle hitting you.