Got my spark problem fixed û defective new crank sensor (you don't think to check a new part). It ran good for about 30 minutes and I took it out for a spin and almost did not get home. It has been sputtering and dying ever since. It has a new fuel filter, crank sensor, distributor, plugs wires and cap. There is no egr on this model, will the O2 or MAP sensor cause this or am I looking at a engine computer
Thanks

One test for the O2 is to simply unplug it and if the run is better...there ya go.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Unplugging the O2 didnÆt change anything. I am out of ideas. I wish aftermarket manuals were better!

OK this is weird; I have been charging the battery for a few hours and it runs better û not completely, but better. Then the battery volts drop below 14 and it gets real ruff again??!! It measures 14.7 when it is running and 13.6 when it is off ûso it must be charging?! Does any of this mean anything?

Does any of this higher battery voltage mean anything? 14.7 volts sounds high enough to think the alternator is working or does it? Could the electronics be this sensitive?

I am charging again now and will leave it until tomorrow and I will try again

Everything in your ride will run fine on 12v. Perhaps you are having an AMP problem? Does the starter spin good? Do the headlights glow brightly? If yes then your lectric system should be Ok.
When you turn the headlights on and then start the engine do the headlights go out when the starter is engaged?
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

If your battery voltge is reading 13.7 volts when the engine is NOT running, then either one of two things is happening, because a fully charged battery should read about 12.7 volts.

(1) If you are taking the reading of battery voltage immediately after shutting the engine is shut off, then you are getting a false reading. This is normal, and is caused by a phenomenon called "surface charge". Let the vehicle sit for at least 30 minutes after shutting the engine off, and then take a reding of battery voltage. If it is now reading close to 12.7 volts, then the surface charge, not dissipated, is what was causing the high reading.

(2) Your voltmeter could be off (i.e., reading incorrectly). If, after wating the 30 minutes I mentioned above, the battery voltage is still reading 13.7 volts, then I would suspect that your voltmeter is reading too high. If that is the case, then the 14.7 volts that you read with the engine running is probably really about a volt lower also.

94 Cherokee more info û

Thanks for the info, the bat voltage does settles down after 30 min or so. This is a rebuilt engine and all the ground straps are clean and tight.

Sometimes it will idle just fine, and just cut off. When it is idling fine and I barely crack open the throttle it spits and sputters? Could that be the TPS? What is the other sensor next to the TPS? Sometimes it will smooth out and I can ease it around the block a few times, but if I get on it, it bogs out and goes back to spiting and sputtering.
Thanks again

Man that sure sounds like a spark problem to me.. Coil-coilwire-ign box- or the timing itself..
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

is there an ign box on this 94 cherokee?