Does anyone know if you have to remove the oil pan to install an oil pump on a 3.0 or will it come off independently?

You could probably remove the pump without dropping the pan, but for a good installation you should remove the oil pan - the lower pump area provides the flange seal area for the pan. Getting the pan off with the engine in the truck may be a bit of a challenge. To completely remove the pan I think the engine has to be jacked a little. I haven't tried it with the engine in the truck, though - so maybe someone else can be of more help.

Note the picture below - you'll need to remove the oil pickup screen/tube which is bolted to the pump housing - so you might as well do whatever's necessary to get the pan out of the way:


Frank

I tried getting the pan off with out jacking the engine. There is no way around it.

I guess there's not much way to mix up the bearing caps, huh?

Thanks. Even though it isn't exactly what I want to hear <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />, it is the way it needs to be done. I'll keep you posted if anything else comes up. The pictures were extremely helpful. I can see now why you've gotta get the pan out as it is an integral part of the pump.

Do you have any pictures of that engine in your raider??? That racing red paint is great!

I suppose someone could find a way, but it wouldn't be easy. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> That saddle provides a lot of stiffness and is one reason the 3.0L bottom ends hold up so well. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />



No, I'm still building the engine for Bob (87_Montero):

thread

Frank

The FSM says to lift the engine with a chain and insert .79" wood blocks between the insulators and the mounts then lower in order to remove the pan. It makes no mention of crossmember removal but it would probably help out a lot. I've been contemplating this as well. If you dont have a lift (cherry picker) you could probably lift the engine gently from the bottom(use a thick board to distibute the lift load) then insert the blocks and lower your jack. Change out the gasket then raise and remove spacing blocks and re-connect the mounts.

It probably would help, but I'd try it first without the extra effort. I don't think I want to suggest a jacking point.... might work, but you're on your own on that one. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Son and I did this on the Shogun. We took out a couple of bolts and let the front diff and carrier rotate downward, and took off the front crossmember (2-4 bolts). Mucho easier than jacking the engine. Be VERY careful with the pan bolts...