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Re: SFA rebuild - knuckle removal? [Re: Dingman] #812317 05/20/07 09:03 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,153
4Crawler Offline
Web Wheeler
*****
For the brass drift, try a good hardware store that sells metal shapes. Find a length of brass rod (~1/2" dia) and get a foot or so of that.

Re: SFA rebuild - knuckle removal? [Re: 4Crawler] #812318 05/20/07 10:05 PM
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 186
J
jmsdad Offline
Wheeler
Brass drift

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37038

If you have a harborfreight store near you.

Re: SFA rebuild - knuckle removal? [Re: jmsdad] #812319 05/20/07 11:18 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 422
D
Dingman Offline OP
Mudrunner
That's exactly where I went and I bought two sets. I'll keep one set in my garage and another set in my truck.

Man, you guys, I think I'm ready to start putting it back together. I have all the races replaced, the bearings greased (gotta love that bearing packer tool), MOST everthing cleaned.
The wheel hubs are completely ready, rear seal and all.
I still have alot of bolts to clean and the birfs and knuckles to put in and then pack with grease.
The write up's you guys provided are great, but they do seem to miss a few of the noob details. No big deal, it's good mental excersize to figure it out.
I should have taken pics today but didn't. Sorry.


Paved Roads ~ Another example of wasteful government spending.
'85 $runner, lifted and locked.
See the Ding_yota here
Re: SFA rebuild - knuckle removal? [Re: Dingman] #812320 05/22/07 02:38 AM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 422
D
Dingman Offline OP
Mudrunner
OK, getting bummed here.
I'm putting the knuckles back on and I didn't check the bearing\stud fit as described on Rogers page. I couldn't press the knuckle bearing caps on by hand and rather than pound them on, I used the nuts to press them on. I paid attention to the force required and tho it wasn't great, I'm hoping I don't have a bad time getting them off next time.

Anyone else have trouble getting the caps on? I didn't like the idea of sanding down the studs, I'm certain I'd end up with flat spots and then I'd probably try to get the flat spot out, leaving a stud too small.

I also can't figure out the fish scale thing? If it's a big deal to measure steering (knuckle bearing) drag, then I have to pull the crossover steering arms? Damn.

Sorry, I'm a bit put out right now, damn neighbor kids and their bikes. I bet I worked on 5 bikes today and it got me distracted enough from my knuckles that at first, I tried to install one upside down. Dammit. Finally the father came over with 2 MORE bikes that the kids had gotten locked together so tight, they wouldn't come apart (pedals thru spokes\wheel) and I said,
"This is it. No more bikes tonight". I hate being rude, but this is ridiculous. Dammit, I have 4 more days to get my rig ready for the big Memorial day ride and don't have time for bikes...
Anyway, what about the caps and the shims? Critical or just slap it together?


Paved Roads ~ Another example of wasteful government spending.
'85 $runner, lifted and locked.
See the Ding_yota here
Re: SFA rebuild - knuckle removal? [Re: Dingman] #812321 05/22/07 02:50 AM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,153
4Crawler Offline
Web Wheeler
*****
Use a fine file or some fine sandpaper (emery cloth) to smooth up the studs on the arms/bearing caps to let them slide into the bearings easily. No problem with flat spotting them, just do a little sanding (grab the stud in between finger/thumb with sandpaper wrapped around, spin the stud), then check the fit and repeat as needed. You'll soon be able to find the high spots on the stud and be able to knock them down.

Fish scale is easy, just attach the hook and pull until the knuckle moves, watch force on scale. Do test with both bearings installed and tight and the rubber/felt wipers on the back *not* attached.

Re: SFA rebuild - knuckle removal? [Re: 4Crawler] #812322 05/24/07 01:43 AM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 422
D
Dingman Offline OP
Mudrunner
OK, I'll do that on the other one then. Too late for the knuckle I have on already. I have a few more questions tho~
1) Do I pack the everything completely full of grease? I thought I read somewhere that certain parts\areas should only be coated, otherwise the drag reading would be off?

2) I think I threw away one of those metal rings that go on the back of the knuckle, under the rubber wiper. Are those hard to replace? Do I really need it?

3) When I bought the truck, I had some chromo axles\birfs installed, when I took them out, they came out one at time, the birfs are not clipped or whatever it is to the axles. Is that a problem? Will the axle slide out of the birf and too far into the diff?

Last edited by Dingman; 05/24/07 01:48 AM.
Re: SFA rebuild - knuckle removal? [Re: Dingman] #812323 05/24/07 01:57 AM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,153
4Crawler Offline
Web Wheeler
*****
Quote
OK, I'll do that on the other one then. Too late for the knuckle I have on already. I have a few more questions tho~
1) Do I pack the everything completely full of grease? I thought I read somewhere that certain parts\areas should only be coated, otherwise the drag reading would be off?


I only put some over each knuckle bearing and a light coating inside the housing to keep the rust at bay. Birf. is packed full. My logic is to only put in as much as you want to clean out next time smile Folks who do a lot of mud/water pack them full to keep the water out.


Quote
2) I think I threw away one of those metal rings that go on the back of the knuckle, under the rubber wiper. Are those hard to replace? Do I really need it?


They give some support to the rubber wiper and get the spacing right. Could probably cut some out of an old can or sheet metal if needed.


Quote
3) When I bought the truck, I had some chromo axles\birfs installed, when I took them out, they came out one at time, the birfs are not clipped or whatever it is to the axles. Is that a problem? Will the axle slide out of the birf and too far into the diff?


Probably were "martacked":
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml#Martack

If not they should be or that could be the cause of your leaking seal(s).

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