Ok, well I am not 100% sure this will happen at all, however I am hoping to not only get an idea of what the outcome can be, but also see if there is still much life left in this board.

I have been researching the SAS, and gone through most write-ups that I have found. I understand a great deal, however I am curious to see final products. Most photos are trail shots..which while great don't get the best view of how it turned out.

I am curious to know overall height to frame...which will also depend on what method/setup you used. I figure most SOA are probably over 24" mark(street legal here in UT) to the bottom of the frame. I just want to see what I am looking at for an outcome.

I do understand that it can very on quite a bit, so maybe with a little description I can see what would be best. I have even thought of doing radius arm design kind of like Troy's, however it seems too tall for my tastes. So far, the height I prefer is Houlsters. The height is nice, and he was able to good articulation out of it.

So, if you have done one and have a good pic of it (probably a side shot would be best for reference) and maybe a small description of what the setup is, and height to bottom of frame, ie, SUA, 25" under frame.

Thanks.

Here's one we did to a Rodeo...The caster was not yet set in this pic



Here's one with a stock trooper sitting behind it. This was an SUA SAS sitting on 33's.


Here's the Rodeo sitting next to a stocker, SOA SAS with a 3" bodylift sitting on 32's

Here's mine


SOA w/shackle reversal, BDS YJ 3.5" front springs, stock rear with DOR spring upgrades and Calmini shackles. Chevy D60/14BFF on 38.5" boggers. I'm running 10* shims in the front to get the castor in spec.



The frame is 26.5" high in the front, and 26" in the rear. I'm planning on building some spring sliders to replace the front shackles to get the height down. New steering is in the works as well.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

Jonesy, I would just go with a 3 link and panhard bar since you have the shop to help you. You can keep the height down by removing the body lift and shortening the coils that you use. I actually raised mine about 3 inches by adding longer coils. I am thinking I should have just left it shorter though.

Funny, most of the guys at the shop think sticking with leaves is the best way. They comment on it being tested, reliable and simplest.

Still unsure. I guess there aren't many more photos from people. So far, from what I have seen, I am thinking SUA is my best choice. I don't want to get to high, nor do I need to fit a huge tire.

Again, this is still sitting in the future..nothing immediate by any means, just doing my research.

I'd offer up some pics but i'm not to that stage yet. I'm still in the middle of my engine swap, then I move to the sas. Although my frame is cleaned and waiting.

I've done a little mocking up and using some relativley flat springs it still looks like i'll have quite a lot of lift with my soa,(more than I want for 35's) So if your only running 33's or 35's and don't need the added articulation of a soa, sua my be your best choice. IIRC though, the with the sua you start running out of room for adequate axle stuff.

Once I get the weight of my engine and tranny in I'll get some pics of spring and axle placement. Just check out my build thread for updates.

I agree with the second sentence, but not with the first sentence if your goal is to keep it low. With leaves under the frame, and room to move the suspension (especially to clear the steering linkage across the springs), it is tough to do a solid-axle swap and keep it low. Links can be lower, since there is less horizontal linkage in front of the axle than in a leaf-sprung setup, where the leaves ARE the links.

FWIW, there are some good pictures on this forum, or linked, but the sheer size of the aggregate whole can make it a challenge to find them. I searched up a few threads for you:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...&Number=441164&Forum=c15
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...&Number=240686&Forum=c15

I also have some simple pictures online from the late 90's when I did UZI's front axle swap:
http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/randii/gifs/uzi_susp/
...of note is the flat springs, dropped spring hangar, and below the frame shackle. I've since managed to decrease lift with shorter shackles, but if I were to do it again, I would use my existing flattish springs, but go through the frame in the rear Toyota-style, and use less drop in the front hangar. In doing so, I'd be forced to run shorter shocks or put towers through the fenders, I'd have to rework my steering to keep it out of the leaves and somehow keep it off the oil pan, and I'd have to cut and turn the knuckles to get back to reasonable caster angles... there ain't no such thing as a free lunch (TANSTAAFL).

Hope that helps,

Randii