Taken from here :
http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51614Good write up <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Changing a Timing Belt: A Saga, starring me and my dutiful son.
OK, so we popped the hood and had a look. Undid the negative battery terminals, and the tools were all laid out and we started with a 10mm socket...
1. We took off the 4 bolts that held the Intercooler down. The mounting bars for the intercooler were blocking the fan shroud from coming out. Once we undid the 4 bolts, we had to unclip two wiring harnesses and and unbolt a couple more to completely remove the intercooler.
2. Now what? The shroud still won't come out. The top rad hose blocks it, so we drain the rad.
3. Now we take off the top rad hose. I'll wait to see if the whole rad has to come out or not before I unhook any more hoses.
OK, looks like belts are next - 3 of them, air, alternator, water pump etc. Find their respective tensioners and loosen them off.
4. 4 bolts hold the shroud down. But the shroud won't come off without the fan coming with it.
5. 4 bolts hold the fan base down, undid them, and it turns out they also hold the pulley down. Bolts go through fan base/pulley, and into armature - that will be fun to replace...
6. Push fan towards rad and pull out the belts, keeping them in order to make replacement easier.
7. Pull up fan, and shroud together. That makes a little room to work, but enough?
8. Remove the bolts holding down upper timing belt cover - one is about 3 inches long, another about 2 inches, and 4 of them are about 3/4" I mark the two long ones and where they go for replacement.
9. OK, now I have to remove the crank shaft bolt. But every time I attempt to turn it, it turns over the entire engine. I look for some way to wedge something to hold the crank shaft from turning - exasperated. Waste 30 minutes doing this. Then read online (Delica Owner's Group) that you can wedge a breaker bar against the frame and use the starter motor to turn it off. So I re-hook the negative battery terminal and give it a try. Works like a charm.
10. Crank shaft pulley won't budge. Tap it, coerce it, pry on it (crack the lower timing belt cover), nada, no luck. Got to get a puller in there but there is no room between the rad and the pulley for a puller.
11. Start to pull rad. One hose is already off, so disconnect the lower hose. Two more hoses from the auto tranny got to go too, but the skid plate is in the way.
12. Remove 4 bolts and pull out skid plate that stopped access to two clamps for tranny cooler.
13 Undo two clamps and voila, tranny fluid spills on top the ground, more coolant goes the same way. I'm thinking environmentalists are gonna be pissed.
14. Rad pulls straight up and out.
15. Slide puller down the space I created... fits, barely. Snug in puller bolt, but can't see anything from the top... turns out that the puller bolt is going down the same bolt hole that the crank shaft bolt uses - dammit. Screwed up the first few threads of the crank shaft bolt hole before I figure out what is happening.
16. So replace crank shaft bolt into hole to re-tap threads, not too hard. Leave crank shaft bolt in for puller bolt to push against.
17. Replace puller on pulley, and slowly, slowly, slowly, pulley finally comes off.
18. Remove the bolts that hold on the bottom timing belt cover, and it slides out easily.
19. Finally, I can see the timing and balance belts. Mark timing marks with "White Out" typing correction fluid. Works great.
20. Two tensioners, start with the top one. Loosen the two bolts and pry with large screwdriver against a very stiff spring. PRY!!!!! Damn that is a good spring. OK, made a little slack in the belt and slide it off. It looks new, really new. So new that I shouldn't have bothered doing any of this. Damn doomsayers on POCUK, but, no, I needed to do it and make sure.
21. Balance belt tensioner. Same kind of system but no place to pry. Shove all your weight in.. what direction? I had bought new tensioners so had a look to see where the slot was. So reapply force and make a little slack for the belt. This belt looks good too.
22. I am not replacing these tensioners. They look brand new! No wobble, spin freely. Remember - this truck only has 90,000 original kilometres on it. I will replace them next time I do the belts.
23. Check water pump. No leaks, no wobble. OK, it stays too. Maybe next time.
24. Slide on balance belt. Little here, little there, take it easy, don't move the gears. OK, not to bad. Release tensioner against belt.
25. Slide on timing belt, a little more hassle. Cam keeps threatening to move one tooth forward. OK, got it... release tensioner.
26. Put socket on crank case bolt and roll the engine through one cycle. Everything lines up.
27. Follow directions for adjusting tensioners. Tighten tensioners. Check tension on belt. It looks good.
28. Roll engine through a few more cycles with ratchet. and marks, tension etc. all look good. That was the easiest part of the whole job!
29. As Haynes says, 'Installation is reverse of removal". Yeah right.
30. Actually, everything goes on pretty good until it comes time to reinstall crank shaft bolt. I still don't have room for an impact wrench in there, and the starter motor doesn't run in reverse to tighten the bolt back on. I look for places (again) to pry and hold the engine from turning but there is no way I am going to get the really high torque on that bolt that they want. So I unthread it, and use some blue lok-tite on the threads. and replace it with as much torque as I can.
31. Next little trouble spot is trying to feed the small bolts through the base of the fan, through the pulley, and then into the threaded hole. While virtually blind folded and handcuffed by the lack of room. Much frustration brought illumination - get a smaller bolt and push it through all three once aligned, then do it again with another small bolt, and then screw in the real bolt into one of the open holes. Wow. Now I wanna kill a Mitsubishi engineer, I am thinking with darts so it takes a long time.
32. Slide in rad, reattach all hoses, fill rad, bleed rad,
33. Check everything in place. Turn over truck with glow plugs removed so it won't start. Everything looks good. Replace pugs, Truck starts first bang. Happy truck, good truck.
34. Took truck for test drive. All OK, but it seems I have a whine, just when I start to accelerate. Seems to be comng from the front of the engine. I'm wondering maybe I tightened a fan / water pump or AC belt too tight.. I will have to check. Any ideas?
Total time with all the hassle, confusion etc. of never having done it before, and all the "No, I need a 5 inch extension, damn too long, can't get in there with that, give me a three inch instead." Or "Socket won't fit in there, give me a low profile socket. Damn, still won't fit, give me a ratcheting box end spanner." or " I dropped that bolt - can you see it? No it went over that direction - get me a magnet, its hung up inside the engine compartment." or "see if you can grab me a band-aid, I'm getting blood all over this and it makes it slippery." So total time was 6.5 hours. Ow! next time will be faster. Hopefully this story will shave some time off someone else's first attempt!
*A Postscript:
The whining turned out to be a loose bolt. Two bolts hold the AC pump, I had tightened only one of them, and the other was rubbing against the back of the pulley.
I used a mechanics stethoscope to pinpoint the source.
I also readjusted the 3 belt tensions.
All is well.
