I just finished this job on my 89 4 cyl and 2 floor jacks worked well but you will need help to re-install safely. I was able to get the tranny out and the clutch replaced alone but felt there was no way to safely line up and re-install alone.

As a safety measure I also supported a boat winch through the shifter hole and winched the tranny straight up. I also strapped the tranny to the 2 floor jacks. Once everything is up and lined up with the pilot bearing the floor jacks made it very easy to just slide forward and bolt it up.

I wouldn't even consider pulling the engine for this job.

Randy

Thanks for all the comments. I did decide to take out the engine instead of the tranny. As I said I am doing this alone. Seemed safer and time is not a issue. The guvtrooper is kinded a hobbie anyway. I can't golf every day. I did get to presure wash everything this way. Only thing I had to do different was remove the oil pan to get by the axle. Two of the upper bellhousing bolts were missing so I am waiting for those. Got a new flywheel as the old on was cracked. (Don't pull a car out of the sand at the beach after dark with the water lapping at your wheels with the emergency brake on. Your clutch doesn't like it.)
I still haven't figured out how I am going to get those bellhousing bolts in. Looks like a lot of different ways have been used here. Any best way? Do you think setting the engine in with out the mounts but still on the hoist could tilt it lower in the front. Then raise the back of the tranny, or lower the front, to create to space at the top of the engine by the firewall would work. Then put the mounts in afterwards.

Undo the (2) bolts per side that hold the entire front axle/diff assy to the frame and let it drop down. This gives clearance for reinstalling the motor with the oil pan on.

When I put the 3.1 in my "Alaska Trooper" I did leave the motor mount brackets out until the motor was safely "landed" back into the tranny. It did give a bit more room to jockey things into position. Note a set of Gear Wrenches will come in very handy in the tight spots!

HTH........ed

DO LIKE ED SAID AND DROP THE FRT AXLE DOWN, AND THEN LEAVE OFF THE ENG MOUNT CUSHIONS, AND THE ENG WILL GO WAY DOWN, WE NEVER DO EITHER JUST JUST A LONG EXTENSION AND A MID LENGTH SWIVEL SOCKET AND GO OVER THE TOP OF THE TRANS GOING IN AND OUT , DROP THE FRT OF THE ENG AND YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO REACH FROM UNDER THE HOOD AND BUY YOURSELF SET OF RATCHET WRENCHES .JERRY

Great tips for the install. Last question I hope. I am doing the rear main seal. I bought a install kit at harbor freight, but not big enough. Takes about a four and a half inch. Do you folks have a way without buying an expensive special tool. I don't want to screw up the seal job. Thanks

I think I used a large, stiff plastic cup of appropriate diameter. Like a Tupperware cup, something strong enough that it won't bend. I'm sure there's a better way, like a piece of PVC if you can find the right size (4" is probably too small if you say the seal is 4.5").

YEP TAKE THE SEAL AND GO TO HOME DEPOT AND GET YOURSELF A PIECE OF PVC PIPE AS CLOSE TO THE OUTSIDE DIA OF THE MAIN SEAL AS YOU CAN AND USE THAT AS A DRIVER AND PACK THE BACK SIDE OF THE SEAL WITH A LIGHT CHASSIS GREASE SO THE GARTER SPRING DOESNT JUMP OUT WHEN YOU DRIVE IT IN, JERRY

Update: Clutch install by taking out the engine instead of the tranny went very well. I did need some help getting the engine aligned on the installation though. One of my questions on the forum was finding press to put the rear main seal in. I also thought a peice of PVC would work. My friend that helped me is a lifetime mechanic clear up to all things diesel. He would have no part of that idea. Way to risky for such an important job. So I built a press out of a piece of corian countertop. Used the bolt hole pattern for the frywheel to drill four holes, then cut out a big hole in the center to allow the press to go over the raised part of the flywheel hub. I used the old seal over the new one and just tightened the four flywheel bolts a little at a time. This worked very well. A little over kill I thought, but never had to worry about a damaged or crooked seal.

Would I take the engine out instead of the tranny again? Well I learned alot. I had never taken any engine out before. I got to pressure clean and fix the oil leeks. The work in general was easier from the engine compartment instead of working on my back. Aligning the engine was difficult, but so is aligning from underneath. Like any of these kind of jobs the second time would be a beeze. So, if you have the time and want to learn about your trooper it's a good thing. The GUV started right up and runs great. Thanks for all the input I got from everyone that replied it was appriecated.

GUVtrooper (Golf Utility Vehicle)

That is what I did and it worked great. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

THAT WOULD BE CORRECT TO DO FOR A LOT OF DSL ENGINES INCLUDING THE ISUZU DSL, THEY ARE DESIGNED TO BE PRESSED IN BY A SPECIAL TOOL AND THOSE SEALS DONT COST 20.00 DOLLARS , MORE LIKE 80.00 AND THEY ARE NOT A DOUBLE LIP SEAL LIKE THE RUBBER SEALS THAT ARE DESIGNED TO BE DRIVEN IN, THAT IS WHY THEY MAKE SEAL DRIVERS , BUT PRESSING IT IN WONT HURT IT AT ALL.IF YOU HAVE A PRESS . JERRY