Hello all;

At the risk of sounding like the virgin that I am, I am removing the doors off my 2004 TJ sport (yeah, their full metal) for the first time today. The weather in Portland has finally turned, and since I bought the jeep in October, I've been waiting for this day. It's a daily driver, but I digress.

I know to wrap the bolt in tape to avoid scratches, have a Quadratech switch for the overhead lights already installed, and have the mirror movers ready to mount. Any other tips are greatly appreciated.

TAPE? Will that tape go thru the hole in the hinge?
Anyway what Jeep don't have few scratches on it?
First time off may be a wiggle and lift problem. It may be a pain to lift them off but they WILL COME!
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the response. The tape did not avoid the scratches, and the doors came off just fine. It was the mirror movers that bogged me down. Seems I need a 4" torque wrend (T-40) to tighten the bolts on the windshield when mounting the movers, and a t-27 torque wrench to remove the OEM mirrors from the doors. Had neither in my inventory, and the local hardware store did not have the 4" torque wrench in stock, so the doors went back on after a quick ride to enjoy the open air.

Not to be nit picky, but just to avoid confusion for those who may not know. What you have (T-27, and T-40) are Torx fasteners, which were originally designed as a screw type fastener to resist the driver head popping out of the screw like with a Phillips fastener. Unfortunately we have to deal with Torx fasteners all over our Jeeps. A Torque wrench as you refer to is MUCH different than a Torx wrench, or Torx driver.

On that note, you can go to any Sears and get a 3/8 drive Craftsman set that will cover your Jeep, but they arenÆt cheap. I just picked up a 9 piece Performance Tool set at Summit when I was driving through Ohio that covers T-10 to T-50 for $9.95.

Sean

Just a bit of an addition. Them torx's on Jeeps are KNOWN to be real tight! I ALWAYS use a hammer driver when first loosening them. If we aren't careful we RUIN the torx holes with a good wrench. The hammer driver does real good on those hard to break loose torxes.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the correction guys. Looks like I'll be at Sears this weekend. What does that hammer go for?

Twenty bucks or so... They sure are nice if you have OLD screws to pull. They will take most any bit and the force of the hammer pushes the bit INTO the screw... where using a wrench might tend to pull the bit OUT of the same screw thereby damaging the screw hole.. The thing is great on rusty Philips screws also.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Second that, those hammer impact drivers are nice to have.

Sea Foam deep creep or PB blaster to help with getting them out. I prefer sea foam over PB but both work well and PB is cheaper, it just takes a little longer for it to penetrate. I also replace all teh door torx screws with proper bolts, makes life easier if you know what I mean. They also get a coat of anti-sieze before they go in.

I'm curious as to where a hammer drill can be purchased for only $20.

If you don't feel like buying an entire torx bit set, your local hardware store should have them for sale seperately. Just don't buy a set where the bits are all connected like a swiss army knife...you will find that you cannot get enough torque on those little handles. As the others said, torx screws tend to be real tight.

I would recommend getting and entire set, including the harder to find T-55.

B