More or less I think the bearings are bad in my independent supsension axel. I am spinning oil out near the oil seal at the end of my cv to my differental brackets. The thing is I have NEVER once touch the inards of an axel and this repair is intimidating me.

Anybody got any advice or a list of tools needed to do this repair. I ordered my oil seal already. I have never repacked bearing either.
All and any advice tips are appreciated.

I have an independent front suspension Isuzu VehiCROSS for reference.

In my opinion, that's the biggest mistake you can make. Don't let it intimidate you. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Do you have a repair manual? If not, get you one. Helm is the best and the prefered, but if not, a cheapy Auto Parts store one should be ok.

Pretty much it's straight forward. Take it apart and put it back in reverse order of how you took it off.

Richard <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Having never done this before I do not know what I am getting myself into. I want to learn for sure, and I dont want to let someone else mess with it. I went to an auto store or two and they did not have of course one for the VehiCROSS. Would the Trooper one be fine. Im guessing a later generation Trooper manual. I have an online manual for the VX but I would like a physical copy.

Why I am intimidated is becuase someone, not here mentioned the use of fish scales and such. All I want to do is just slap her in and bolt her back up. I had no idea I have to do some gearing and such to perform this repair????

Thanks for your advice it is much appreciated.

John

The fishscale is to set the preload on the bearings in the wheel hub. Not a big deal. You just hook the fishscale to one of the lugs and try to rotate the rotor. Look at the reading when you do this. If the reading is lower than spec, you tighten the nut up; higher, loosen the nut. Not hard at all really. Once you do it, you'll see that it's nothing.

Trooper manual should be fine for this. They both have the 10 bolt front.

Richard <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

You don't actually have to mess with the front wheel bearings to do this job. Pop the upper ball joint and the tie rod and the spindle will rotate enough to pull the axle out of the spindle. Removing the hub actually gains you nothing.

Michael

Uh... And how is the axle going to come out of the hub
if you don't take the nut off that also holds the bearings in?

Uh... And how is the axle going to come out of the hub

Uh, remove the c-clip that retains the axle in the spindle.

The hub nut retains the hub on the spindle and sets bearing pre-load. The stub on the CV shaft is retained by a simple c-clip.

Michael

Oh yeah, that's right... I forgot it was a c-clip.
I was thinking the nut held the axles.

Been playing with too many FWD's recently. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Whew, for a moment I thought I had done something terribly wrong when I disassembled my front end...never touched the bearings. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Hi Michael
I was just reading the exchanges between you and Litnin and Richard Saylor. I just changed a CV axle, everything went well I thought, but everything you guys said flew past me. I have an 89 4x4 trooper. I removed the hub. Could I have gotten by without doing that? It had a c-clip but no bolt at the end of the axle, threads though. Am I in the wrong place here, guys? I am trying to learn. Stan