so i own a 87 raider i finally got a new exhaust manifold got it on and finally found a secondary air pipe. On my odometer the doors say there always open so it drains the battery. The manifold has a little hole and the tube connecting to the air cleaner has a lil nudge looking like a rubber pipe goes there. I seen white smoke from the ehxuast manifold first time starting it since putting it on today thing its the polish or what ever. The big thing i'm scared of is i kinda hear a whine from the motor its kind of hard to describe sounds like the jet vavles i think. a new tranny was put in and i'm scared its got problems it grinds in between shifts and first gear only seems to last to about 2k rpm's in 2low never owned a 5 speed before can someone tell me how long each gear lasts

if this sounds mumbled and <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> i apologize i can try to rephrase it

I know my buddys Eclipse would grind a bit between 1 and 2. bled the clutch and it went away. the door light can be solved by pulling the door switches and unplugging them. Couldn't tell you about the engine whine. Sounds more to me like its low on gear oil almost.

gear longevity or top speed between gears? longevity is depending on use. top speed between gears is really an unknown on my end since every car is different.

where can i put more gear oil in the tranny? i think i'm going to go find the guy i had put in the tranny. I paid 1200 for supposedly new fuel pump transfer case think tranny only was done. She has sat in Colorado blizzard right after the new tranny so it barley has 35 miles on it could need a good day of driving. Theres a rattle underneath or near the tail pipe i'm going try to investigate a little more tomorrow

how would i pull the door switches? thanks for the help i'm trying to learn bare with me i'm a slow learner

It's ok, we all are noobs at one time or another. The rubber sleeved door switches are on the bottom rear corner of the door jams. Pull the rubber cover and you will see a single screw holding it in. Unscrew it, pull the switch out, unplug it, and put switch back for looks and keeps moisture out. I ran across the switch problem when I first got my Raider. I unplugged it for the longest time. I then plugged it back in and made a nickel into a shim so now it works (sometimes). <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Also the gear oil. Get under there and get dirty finding the fill and drain plugs. Find the fill plug and pull it, if you can put your finger in and feel oil its fine. If you can't you need to add more. Add more until it pours out of the fill plug.

Do both your Trans, and your Transfer case. If you have the cash, drain your rear diff and fill that with fresh gear oil as well. Never hurts, also if the gear oil was as bad as mine, you will get a slight improvement on economy and power. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

i got the book so your saying i should drain the transmisson and transfer case fluids aslong as the differentials what kind of oil would u recommend i'm trying to get everything in tip top shape before emissions which i think would pass now that i can keep the 02 in place

i've never worked on a car i got a buddy see if hel help me if not it'l get done someday

I am not sure what weight gear oil to use anymore since its been a long time since I did those. I used Mobil 1 full synthetic in my rear diff, huge improvement over the 17 year old gear oil that was inside. I recently checked the rear diff and the fluid is still really clean. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> I would have the local parts guy look up the appropriate fluid for your particular Gen1 unless one of the 4cyl guys chime in with the answer. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

that'd be cool i still have no temp gauge i was going to by the engine coolant sensor then i realized don't it need some kind of conecter i think ima buy a after market and screw it in the block and mount it like it was a turbo gauge lol

i don't trust auto zone with anything they try to sell me someone chime in whats good to use for a 5 speed manual tranny oil an transfer case oil the differential don't look to hard to drain an fill up i might do that one today

Make sure you can pull the fill plug before you drain the tcase. Tranny fill plug is on the dside of the tranny, about half way up. I use a drill driven pump that hooks to garden hose and a single washer hose cut in half for two threaded hose ends, and a J bent piece of copper tube hose clamped to the washer hose for a filler.

85-90w gear oil is fine for the tranny and tcase. I have had serious recommendations from tranny pros to use atf in the gearbox, and I know of one with nearly 200k miles with nothing but atf used inside. If you have an lsd in the rear, you need lsd gear oil additive along with the gear oil, or the truck will shudder in tight turns as the lsd clutches chatter, and you'll get extra lsd clutch wear.

87raider 5 speed don't think i have lsd and all said about the filler plug and drain plug none of that stuff made sense i'm a complete newb