Has anyone ever thought of using the Superlift 4" bracket lift on the ifs front end but only dialing about 3" of lift out of the t-bars? That way the lift would be a more modest 3" and since the t-bars are backed off you would have better flex and ride. The a-arm angles would actually be shallower than stock, but it would give you 3" over-stock lift.

I just installed the 2" OME Dakar rear leafs and they are giving me about 3.5" of lift in the rear. I can work with them to drop them a bit or I could just throw the Superlift on the front and have a nice 3" package and move up to 33"s

I know BJ spacers are an option but that still leaves the rear 2" higher than the front.

I also thought it would be a good idea to weld braces between the Superlift drop brackets (after they are on the truck and alignment is set), effectively making it a true one piece design and much stronger.

I just can't decide if I want to commit to 33"s. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I can't make up my mind!! If I did the 33s I would definitely re-gear 4.56 to 4.88...so that's another can of worms.

Any thoughts?

Those rears will sag, load it up with a bunch of cement bags for a week and they break in nicely

I never thought about it like that. The superlift kit has lift knuckles, and with them, I am just curious as to how much they lift and how that knuckle and bracket geometry will work when used in an such a way that is seemingly opposite to its designed purpose.

I think i would go with the bj spacers, cause after those springs settle then the 1.5" spacers will probably be a good match.

Besides, unless you got a smokin deal on the superlift kit, the spacers will save you some serious coin.

please keep us updated.
I am thinking about the ome/spacer setup for my pickup so i am especially interested how the springs will settle out.

just my thoughts,

tucker

Either way, the 4" ifs lifts all suck.

Biggest problem I see is that if you dial out over an inch out of the lift with the tbars your central ground clearance will be terrible. There's a thread on yotatech right now where a guy's truck is sitting like that. Check it out and you'll see what I mean.




http://www.yotatech.com/f116/some-pics-4-33s-122802/

I did this with the 3" Rancho kit on my 86/87 trucks. Dialed in about 2" and it was great - allowed full compression on the trail at full speed.

IFS kits do not suck, despite some people with chips on their shoulder regarding them. The idea of beefing the kit with cross braces is a good one, but I'd make them bolt in to allow easier servicing of the diff should you need to do so in the future. Also, add the kicker braces from a pro-comp kit and a good skid plate.

While you address a big issue which every single truck I've seen in person with a 4" lift has had, thats not what really pissed me off about my 4" lift. This is what pissed me off: thread

A 4" lift is fine for taking your truck on logging roads every now and then, but if you ever have to push the truck to its limits, the lifts not gonna last long.

-Scerb

That's almost exactly what I've done to my T100. I built my own brackets similar to the Superlift ones and un-cranked the t-bars about an inch from where the factory set them.

This means under the front crossmember I only have the same ground clearance as I would normally have with 33's even though I've got 35's, but that is still more than enough for my uses.

My main reason for doing it was simply to lower it. It used to have the 4" lift plus a 2" bodylift, which my wife liked. However, now that I'm divorced and have "my" truck back <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" /> I took off the BL and lowered the t-bars and I like how it looks/rides/drives MUCH better now.