Hello, I just Recently purchase a 1989 Dodge Raider V6 5 speed with just about 159k, Its red with a gray graphic bottom, with gray interior. Bought the truck for $450 off of craigslist. The truck runs strong compare to my slow Mercedes diesels. Theres no knocking at all, starts up quick, clutch is good as well as the tranny.

Here are the cons.

Theres a rust hole on the right rear wheel hump inside the truck. An theres rust growing by the front left fender where the mud flaps suppose to be. A tree landed an damage the front right fender an right side off the hood, the person banged out the dent to make it look better, though its a noticeable job. The tree branch also damage the windshield though the owner replaced it with a new one. Scratches an small dings around the exterior.

Interior was poor, the owner had a dog literately living in the car an I don't wanna say the dog peed every where but it smelt like it did, an plus I just recently replace the whole carpet today with my own cut outs of home depot carpet, an from taking out the old carpet I see nasty stains under neath the old carpet, an the smell was unbearable. Used germicide on everything, ardor eliminator on everything, an stain remover on everything! The seats where torn, so I recently purchase seat covers, consoles had scuffs all over them, though all gages work well. It had the original double din radio which was abused an not functionally properly, which I through away. Through out all speakers as well.

Now here is what I need help with!

Starting with the interior,

1. The gate lock button works only unlocking the door but not locking.

2. The signal relay malfunctions when engaged an signals the lights very slowly, an also stick the signal lights on sometimes an not flashing.

3. The climate control does not work at all. I sense the blower motor could be hosed? (probably from all that nasty dog hair clogging it up) Need help on this badly, its starting to get cold out!!

4. How do you engage the headlight washers?

Now the engine.

1. Main concern is about the oil pressure being low. When starting the engine cold the oil gauge shows the pressure being in the middle of 2-6. When the engine is warm at idle the needle sits down to zero. While driving the needle goes up two 2 an sometimes a bit pass it, though it never sits in the middle of 2-6. Is this normal?

2. The timing belt on the engine shows no wear though the timing belt is not align perfectly on the sprocket Is this normal?

3. At what rpm does your engine run when driving 60mph on 5th gear with the 3.0L v6 stock? Just wondering...

Thats it for now!

Any tips I showed look out for on this type of vehicle?

Welcome! Here's my take on your questions:

1) Take the switch out of the dash, disconnect the wire harness (caution: live 12V -- just be aware). Carefully disassemble the switch, take an emery board to the contacts (they'll be corroded, and that's why they only work one way). Carefully reassemble the switch, plug the harness back in, verify switch works in both directions, re-insert in dashboard.
2) Turn signal relay is dying. You can use a generic one from the auto parts store and it works just as well. Make sure to get one with the same prong pattern, then zip-tie it or whatever to the driver-side kick panel.
3) I suspect it's either the switch or more likely the resistor. The factory service manual (can be found on the handy russian site mentioned several places on this board) has a troubleshooting procedure for the switch, and instructions for pulling the resistor. Resistors can be bought from NAPA or the like for ~$30, and takes about 1/2 hour to replace.
4) Well, I've never actually used mine since the pump is el bustido, but I believe you pull the column switch for the wipers towards you? Someone else chime in here.
Engine:
1) Sounds about right. These gauges are notoriously innacurate -- I think the general concensus is that as long as you see the needle move to the right when accelerating that's about as good as it gets. Lots of folks have replaced it with mechanical gauges. Your sender unit may also be on its way out, and that's a pretty simple replacement too -- it's down by the oil filter.
2) No idea here. Anyone else?
3)Uhm... somewheres around 3000 rpm I think.

Things to watch out for: There was a recall on the crank bolt -- you should make sure you have the new one or replace it next time you do the timing belt. Capacitors going bad in the ECU. Strong fishy smell and/or rapid clicking from underneath the glove box. This can be visually inspected by pulling the ECU out of the case and looking for corrosion. Several web pages with pictures exist. The IAC (idle air controller) can give your idle fits when it starts to go. There's a place selling brand new IAC motors at very reasonable prices -- I've got it bookmarked if you need it. Idler arm/pitman arm wear. Make sure your fan clutch is in good working order -- these engines aren't too forgiving of an overheat condition and the heads will warp easily. Valve guide seals (smoking on startup?) and possible dropped valve guides.

All in all, though these are strong little trucks, and respond well to TLC.

Good luck with yours!

Eric W.

PS -- It's a good idea to add your vehicle info to your signature so that when you post with other questions it's obvious to us all what type of motor/transmission/SWB/LWB etc. you have! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Oh man Great Help! Thank you very much! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

most everything on 89ismine's post covered everything. The headlight washers are activated with the little button on the turn signal switch. it resembles the cruise control button on a late model buick. If the pump doesnt work, I got my Raiders to work by removing the pump and cleaning it. For good measure attach the one end to a drill and run it for a min. I get a kick out of hitting the button when someone is passing me. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Thank you for writing a well typed out post with proper grammar. We sincerely appreciate this. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

AND 2-6 is good.

Thats Bars on that guage, and 1 bar = 12 psi.

SO 2 to 4 Bars is plenty good.

Don't wait on this one. Tales abound from those that have had it shear off. Get the new bolt, and soak the old repeatedly with Blaster- for days to be sure- then get it replaced.

If it breaks, not only are you dead on the road, you'll also be looking at having to drill out of the crank end what's left of the bolt.

Doh! I missed that it was the headlight washers. I guess that's what happens when I post late in the evening <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Eric W.

Welcome dieselburns! Ditto 89isMine's advice; it's spot on. But replacing the turn signal relay may not make much of a difference--it didn't fix mine. Lots of Gen1 folks have exactly the same symptoms as you. Some have suggested it might be symptomatic of an alternator about to go, or a weak ground. If you do figure it out, please post! I'd love to get rid of that annoyance.

Really? That's pretty interesting. When I bought my truck, the turn signals would sort of work, but were slow, and would slow down and eventually stick on. If I smacked the driver's-side kick panel with the side of my foot, they would start working again, and that's why I figured it was my turn-signal relay. DieselBurns, you might see if yours responds the same way.

Eric W.