i keep the converter locked in 3rd and 4th its a harder shift but its not slow like 1,2 which is probably inherent because the RPMs are lower in 3rd and 4th shifts so it allows less slip, i tightened the cable up a bit for the transmission throttle sensor, generally i spend most of my time in 4th using the locked torque converter position, its nice to not have it come unlocked with throttle variation since it generally only locks under light throttle.

Rotary Switches

Brett from AWshifting originally designed the kit with a rotary switch, dont know why he doenst supply them, guessing he ditched them for good reason.

Im a big fan of the momentary two way switch, 4LED lights for gear position, lighted toggles for manual on and torque converter lock.

Here's a blast from the past. Used to make trannys shift faster with a B&M shift kit. What they do is replace the gasket on the valve body with one that has slightly different routing and replace some of the one way balls as well. What that does is make the tranny shift a lot faster, which improves et's at the track. Also, it REDUCES the time of lockup, which REDUCES the heat buildup in the clutch pack. The resultant reduction of heat and friction extends clutch pack life while giving quicker times in a quarter mile. DOWNSIDE, it is a harder shift for those soft handers out here who want a fat Caddy ride. Under mild acceleration, you do not notice it much. Hit the gas though......

Basic education class - how an auto tranny works.

If you ever get a chance to visit a tranny shop, ask them to show you what actually drives the power to the rear wheels. You will be amazed at what little does so much. Think of a one pound coffee can with some electrostaticlly coated friction discs inside of it. Each disc is about the size of a CD but with a big hole in the middle. 50% of the cd is a hole. Mixed in other, thinner discs that are spring discs. At the end of the coffee can is a piston that punches the discs together, locking the clutches up. When you shift the piston lets off, the clutches disengage, the gears change and the piston slams home again.. The longer it takes the piston to go either way increases wear and heat. Faster is better.

Now consider the clutch disc has a coating that is only a few thousands thick. Dirty fluid, slow shifts, heat all wear the coating off. Bands almost never wear. They are nothing more than a chinch clamp on the outside of the coffee can and look like an old time drive shaft emergency brake like those you see on heavy trucks. The bands are what grab the can and engage the gearing.

Never found out why B&M do not supply kits for Toys. they are still in business. They do a nice job.

Anyway, with a little imagination you have the basics of an automatic. The converter is just a liquid fan that connects the engine to the tranny. Again, lesser lockup = slower shifts = heat and loss of power to the wheels. Big tranny coolers rock as do hard shifts.

My only concern is why B&M is not into Toys. Is it because they just don't want to or is it because of a tech issue? Can I lock up the converter to get better gas mileage w/o screwing other stuff up? Tranny basics are just that. Then the engineers get involved. Mine is a 93T. A little early for the hard core programmers getting into everything but....

Fingers tired. Old people need to sleep. C ya.

Here's some upgrade stuff

http://www.gadgetonline.com/Transmission.htm

http://www.levelten.com

FWIW, I don't think these trannys have any bands in them...

Read this thread http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97198 for a homebrew shift kit for a toyota... prettymuch does the same things that level 10 or IPT do, but for about $50 and some time.

Great link. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

ill second that...im going to do this soon for sure, from what i gather its about 6-8mm tall shims w/ 22mm diameter, it says not to cover the orifice in the accumulators, but they use a solid shim, or do you just not want the spring unable to move in order to let the ATF flow???

this is in reference to the tutorial here...

web page

just want to throw my 2cents in...i've been researching the awshifting kit also, and i found out that if you want to put the 2 separate up/down switches (like F1 paddles) on your steering wheel, there are 2 unused wires in the steering column "clock spring", the device that lets wires go from the airbag, horn, cruise switch thru the steering column. if i need a 3rd wire, i could reposition the cruise on/off portion of the stalk on the dash, and use that wire. i've got a set of up/down paddles off of an AMG mercedes that are just what i need!!! each paddle is just a microswitch with 2 wires in it and the mount. i will be trying to get the right install on those this weekend. thanks, dave....

Just an update, ive been frequently getting some trouble from this kit, several times just today ive turned it off and the truck wont shift down from fourth, it requires me to turn it back on, shift down, and somtimes repeat more than once, i have yet to contact Brett about this...but will post with his reply.