Here's the scoop... did the 134a conversion, o rings, rec/dryer. Evac'd to 30 in for 30 mins and then recharged with ester oil and artic freeze R134a, 8oz oil and 26oz freon, no bubbles in the sight glass. I used R143a guages too...

I live in Phoenix, outside temp is 108f, the the best I can get inside is 59 to 60f at the main vent!! Oh, new blower unit too and it still seems to blow mediocre at best. My BMW will blow you out of the place, in my runner people in the back seat just sweat... Could it be a bad evaporator or expansion valve? The guages read OK on high and low sides... I have blown out the fins of the condenser too... HELP!!! I'm dying in this heat...

did you clean out your evaporator while you were at it?

also check your orifice tube, it could have blown out or is missing

I haven't blown out the evap yet due to taking apart the box. What is up with an orifice tube? Where is it located?

Low air flow + cool temps can be a clogged evap. Took an 85' apart, for it's first time in 20 or so years awhile back and it was almost solid with lint , dog hair ,rat nest and dirt . Soaked it in soapy water , blew it out good , straightened the fins and what a difference. Serious air flow difference.Not to mention it smelt a little better. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

You should have done this before the recharge.

Now that you mention it, it does smell funny...I'll pull it out this weekend and see... I am also going to replace the exp. valve...

I am interested in how the expansion valve replacement goes.

A/C on my 92 truck stopped working intermittently, then stopped altogether....on a very hot, humid day. Local dealer told me the expansion valve was sticking. Wants $387 to replace and does not include replacing the receiveràand of course they add another 8% for shop fees and 8.75% in tax.

A new expansion valve is $40 and estimating evacuating/replacing R22 will be about $90, so I am thinking about doing the work myself.

I would appreciate any tips you can provide from your experience.

BTW, Choltero said he cleaned the evaporator with soapy water, but per FSM ôIf the fins are clogged, clean them with compressed air. NOTICE: Never use water to clean the evaporator.ö

You won't get it clean if you don't use some sort of detergent. As long as you don't get any inside the evap and make sure you rinse it off well what do you think it will hurt?

Changing expansion valve is a piece of cake .Seldom does it need to be done . If you have the slightest amount of air / moisture in the system it can cause an intermitant cooling/ warming cycle. A dirty evap can cause the same thing . A humid day, especially with a dirty evap can cause the same thing. Intenally or externally, it ices up from freezing humidity/ moisture, cloggs the evap till it thaws then repeats.Take it for what it's worth

surely he meant to use the soapy water on the outside of the evap ,not in it.Moisture and air will cause problems if left in a system,the smaller the system the worse the problem.If you dont use a vac. pump after you make the repair you will have moisture and air in it.citrus cleaner,409,simple green all should clean it ok ( externally).most of the internal flush stuff is a mixture of propane,or butane and refrigerant.