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Help From Teralow Veterans #837886 09/24/07 09:23 PM
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,868
Jim_Paget Offline OP
Roll Me Over
I am starting the process of installing my crawler gears from Matt. The tranny is out, the t-case housing is off. I have removed the snap ring on the end of the input shaft to the t-case and removed the bearing. I have also straghtened out the staked portion of the staked nut in the center of the clutch assembly.

I am stumped as to how to get that humungeous nut off. First, it takes a huge wrench, which I have something that will work. Second, I can't figure a way to hold the shaft or some other part so that I can turn the nut.


Jim Paget
88 YJ with a few changes

www.rrr4x4.com
Re: Help From Teralow Veterans [Re: Jim_Paget] #837887 09/24/07 09:31 PM
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,277
RobG Offline
Roll Me Over
Sears is your friend! one of their 3/4" drive SAE standard sockets is just deep enough to get in there and grab that nut. use an impact and you won't have to worry too much about holding the configuration from spinning.

-Rob

EDIT: 1-5/8" is the size you're after.

Last edited by RobG; 09/24/07 09:34 PM.
Re: Help From Teralow Veterans [Re: RobG] #837888 09/24/07 10:10 PM
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,868
Jim_Paget Offline OP
Roll Me Over
I just came back in the house to say "never mind". I got an 1 5/8 socket at Auto Zone and used my pneumatics. Auto Zone was about 1/3 the price of Craftsman, and its not like I am going to use it a lot.


Jim Paget
88 YJ with a few changes

www.rrr4x4.com
Re: Help From Teralow Veterans [Re: Jim_Paget] #837889 09/24/07 11:31 PM
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,868
Jim_Paget Offline OP
Roll Me Over
Next question. What type of 2 jaw puller did people use to remove the t-case input shaft assembly? The auto parts store variety won't cut it.


Jim Paget
88 YJ with a few changes

www.rrr4x4.com
Re: Help From Teralow Veterans [Re: Jim_Paget] #837890 09/25/07 12:44 AM
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,277
RobG Offline
Roll Me Over
well, on the tear down, I go ahead and pop out all the roll pins from all the shift linkages, slide the shift rails out from all the shift blocks and forks totally disassembling all the linkage... then the shift fork & collar will come away from the hi-lo assembly. At that point, you can use any standard 2 or 3 jaw puller to remove the hi-lo hub without interference from the fork.

now, things are a little different once the Tera's are in place as this doesn't work anymore... because of Tera's replacement shift rail where you can't seperate the shift block from the rail anymore. So, if you mess up and have to remove the hi-lo assembly once you've started the install, then you have to get creative in modifying one of your pullers... I like harbor freight for this because I can by a 2 jaw puller cheap, hack it up to suit my purpose and not feel bad about it.

-Rob

Re: Help From Teralow Veterans [Re: RobG] #837891 09/25/07 08:48 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,702
BigSwede Offline
Roll Me Over
Rob's technique sounds pretty good to me. I did about everything the hard way when I did mine...

I didn't have any luck pulling the whole hi/lo assembly at once, we pulled it piece by piece. Possibly with a "modified" puller it could have worked, but my puller was not considered expendable...


Steve Carlson - 95 Trooper LS expo rig
Serenity now!
Re: Help From Teralow Veterans [Re: BigSwede] #837892 09/29/07 02:50 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,529
Bigpoppax2 Offline
Roll Me Over
I used a 6" Ampro puller to pull the high low all at once.

It has worked fine everytime I've done an install.

Joe


A gun in the hand is better than a cop on the phone.

98 Passport 33's, Supercharged, Calmini Bumper, rockbars, diff drops, Teralows, 4.77's, Aussie and ARB lockers, Safari snorkel, Optima red top.







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