I have a 1987 Toyota 4Runner with a 22RE motor. I know they dont produce much horsepower but I am trying to get a bit more power out of it. Ideally I would like to be able to tow a small tent trailer and also use it for some rock crawling in places like Moab and Colorado.

Thus far I have replaced the exhaust with a 2.5" system and headers.

My current drivetrain includes 4.10 axles and 31" tires plus about 6 inches of lift between body and suspension lift. I think the gearing is sufficient as I am going to stay with 31 inch tires. I also plan on putting in a dual transfer case and lockers on both the front (trac lock) and rear (ARB type of locker)

Does anyone have any opinions on putting in a different camshaft? I know there are several out there. Plus I know of better cylinder heads that have larger intake and exhaust ports. I dont think K&N makes an FIPK for this year of motor so any idea on improving intake flow would also be appreciated. Basically I am looking to get the most horsepower for my dollar without spending a fortune.

Any advice or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Gregg

K&N's let in too much dirt; mess up your MAF.
31" tires and 4.56 gearing keeps you close to stock, and won't dog out your engine. That's your moneymaker.
www.engnbldr.com for head/cam. Over .010 seems to be well-liked around here.

My plugged nickels.

x2 on the gears. Changing to 4.56s will get you an honest to goodness 10% more torque to the road. Should be easy to find used ones, or if doing lockers, that is a good time to install the gears.

I did some mild performance work on my 22RE with good results:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/EngineMods/index.shtml

At the bottom of that page are some subjective performance increases.

Also, if running 31s only, you could loose all or part of the lift and the lessened frontal area will help as well, less drag and better top speed and gas mileage (gears will also help mileage). I probably lost 10-20% fuel mileage in going from ~stock to 33" tires and my current lift.

Lose all the lift, too. 31's fit from the factory, and all you're adding is wind resistance. Also, until you get some fairly major mods going, 2.5" is generally considered too much for these motors, moves the powerband too high. Replacement may not be an option, but 2" to the muffler and 2.25" out the back is a nice balance between flow and retaining low end torque.

*EDIT* Bah, Roger beat me to it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Really? I actually GAINED fuel mileage when I changed to 33's on the truck w/ an auto tranny. Maybe the gearing in the tranny + the different axle diffs (4.30's, I think)? Of course, the speedo was thrown off, too <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Yes, something in that range, at least at highway speed, w/ manual tranny. Stock (4.10s, 29-30" tires) used to get ~22 MPG or so. This was with a somewhat tired engine with clogged exhaust/cat that could hardly hold speed in 5th gear. Guess it just could not burn that much gas.

Then when I did a 3.5" lift, 33s and 5.29s, would get ~20MPG (corrected). And now w/ 4.88s and ~6" lift, I now get more in the 18 MPG range (corrected). If I keep the speed to 55 or lower, I'll get back around 20 MPG.

I plan on keeping my lift. Although I dont need it for tire clearance it allows for more challenging rock crawling if I have the clearance. I may make an air spoiler of sorts to improve air flow under the vehicle.

I completely understand gearing but that is not my issue. I am pushing about 3200 RPM at 75MPH which is just fine with me. When I install the 2nd transfer case I will have plenty of low end power.

What I would like is to get a few more horsepower out of the motor for daily driving and towing. I installed a pacesetter header and connected it to 2.5" pipe leading to a cat and muffler that are also 2.5". The tailpipe goes down to 2.25". This really opened up the exhaust and I felt the HP difference......granted I dont know how much HP I really gained. Its hard to quantify.

So how do I get more horsepower from the engine without breaking the bank. My choices that I know of are:

1. New performance camshaft $125
2. New cylinder head (with larger valve openings) $400
3. New larger throttle body $????
4. New fuel injectors (not that fuel injectors add HP unless my old injectors have problems) $150

Does anyone have any information on the potential horsepower gains of these upgrades? I am not going to do all these upgrades I just want an idea of how much horsepower each upgrade might give.

Thanks,
Gregg

engn bldr made a post that addressed much of your question,use the search option,or e-mail him he is very user friendly

Read this thread.
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...p;amp;sb=5&o=all&fpart=1

Personally i'd get the offroad h/o head (depending on smog and such) and a short ram intake like 4crawler has...

Keeping the lift with 31" tires really isnt gonna get you any more clearance, as the only thing that will lift your differentials up in the air is larger tires, and they WILL get hung up on rocks, among other things. lose the body lift at least, the only point of lift is to fit larger tires, and unless you do a drivetrain lift the body lift does nothing. The best suspension mod for IFS is BJ spacers , its the only thing other than really expensive long travel kits that will get you more susp. travel. Gearing is important. even with a 2nd transfer, you will have both in 2HI 90% of the time, during on road, fire road, anything but rockcrawling or climbing. i used to think my gears were fine (4.10 with 31's) then i switched to 4.56 and it made a huge difference across the board.
Throttle body: my opinion unless your truck is turbo'd, dont waste your money. for towing power you want to keep as much low end torque as possible, put in the engnbldr 261C cam, and i used an adjustable cam gear from LC engineering and advanced my cam timing 3 degrees. if you can afford is, go back to 2.25 exhaust, itll make a difference.

just my 10 cents. good luck!