warn ful float kit dana 35 are these kits any good is there any streanth gain or r they junk

I'm not familiar with the Dana 35 axle, since I'e never had one.

But I do have an AMC 20 axle in my CJ7. I initially removed the OEM two-piece axles and replaced them with Moser one-piece axles. I never had a problem with the Mosers, but I never liked the bearing set-up, and I wanted to be able to easily flat-tow the Jeep.

So I removed the Mosers and installed a Warn full floater kit in the AMC 20 axle. The kit is very well made. The axleshafts are stronger than the Mosers. The bearing setup is the same as the front axles on the Dana 30. In fact, Warn wisely used the identical inner and outer bearings and races. So I can carry one spare set in my onboard toolbox, and it will fit any of the four corners. And having strong internal-type locking hubs is a real bonus -- just unlock them to flat tow.

The Warn full Float kit is fine, it's the weak Dana 35 axle that is the problem with that particular setup. I admit that I did this upgrade many years ago on my 94 YJ; it'll take the weight off the tube housing. However, the Dana 35 axle design and thin tube housing will not withstand difficult rocky trails but perhaps only a few years, at best, and eventually fail. I was lucky; I was able to drive home after completing Calamity Canyon in Montrose, CO, some 200 plus miles. The driverside tube housing was leaking gear lube and spinning freely in the rear differential. I suspect that the traction bar welded onto the tube housing was the only thing keeping the tube housing in place.

What Fred said.

In addition to what has been already said, the D35 has a small ring and pinion. So you can install a Detroit in the diff but the small R&P are still there being fastened to the diff by only eight 3/8 inch bolts.

The bottom line is spending good money for bad.

D35, is a joke axle, no doubt. Every dime spent on it is wasted. Now lets talk full float kits, the 44 kit is not terrible, but when you look at it like...Here you go replacing solid, heat treated, steel, with plastic and pot metal, you simply need your head examined. Sure, you flat tow it and turning hubs out is easier than un bolting the driveshaft, I'll give you that one. The real question is what do you do once you unhook the tow bar? Drive to the grocery store? Or wheel a hardcore trail...? I'll take unbolting the shaft (not tying it up under the rig either) completely. If you drive it and don't tow it, why would you ask about ff kits at all?

SD

Aren't FF's a lot easier to change if broken?

ok thanks alot you all been a lot of help <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

In other words, "I'll do it my way and forget I ever asked"

In answer to the question if FF are easier to change? Not really, mainly because you still have to fish out chunks and the hub explodes when the axle breaks anyway.
Oh wait, those hubs explode just looking at them wrong.

SD

SD he only asked for people's opinion on them. He never said he was going to get the kit or not. He just wanted to hear what people had to say about it.

In no way was he saying screw you guys, I'm going to get the kit anyway. He just said thanks for the input. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />