Have any of you guys had any succes with heat and sound insulation, what are the key places to put it and how well did it work.
-thanks

I have put heat insulation in a couple of places on my '89 Runner, V6. Mostly due to the Downey headers and exhaust system I have on there.

Locations:

Starter heat blanket from Summit Racing.

Self Adhesive heat blanket applied to the firewall and bottom side of the passenger side footwell where the header comes down.

Velcro enclosure heat wrap around fuel lines that run down under the passenger side footwell.

1" tube heat shield around front e-brake cable from the firewall to where it attaches to both rear e-brake lines, due to melting the stock cable with the header kit.

Mike

Never played with heat insulation, only sound insulation. What color is your paint job. If it is white you may be able to get away with the cheaper stuff, if black you must buy the best. Look at how high of temperature the adhesive that holds it in place can handle. A black car can get over 200F on a nice sunny still air day. The adhesive needs to be able to handle that and still hold the sound deadening insulation when vibrated. Sound Deadener Showdown has a good writeup on this.

Another spot to look for sound is where your harness grommets come in thru the firewall. If they're rotten, missing, or out of place, that lets in a lot of noise too.

Other areas to hit for maximal impact on sound. Any large expanse of sheet metal such as the roof, back wall of the cab, and insides of the outer sheet metal of the doors. Those areas can be easily hit without much tear down. For a complete job you will need to do allot more tearing down to get at all the insides of the exterior sheet metal. I'd recommend asking questions on a car audio forum to gauge how much work it may take to get the level of road noise deadening you desire.

For when I change my truck into a micro RV I'll be sound insulating it. I haven't decided on how extensive I'll attack it, but I may even go in and do the firewall behind the dash. At the minimum I'll do the floor, doors, roof, and cab back wall. Doing the sound proofing also gives me the excuse of going in and cleaning up any interior rust spots.

That brings up another question, My rig has a moon roof (or pop up sun roof) and i also have one of those vinyl head liners. How hard is it to take down that head liner,so i can put up insulation. Will i be able to put it back and have it still look right.

Which truck? Makes a difference.

From what I've read so far if you remove all the little bits like the pillar moldings, edge moldings, etc. the headliner will fall. This seams to be the case across many Toyota makes. Toyota Nation has lots of info in many threads. You will need to sign up if you want to use their search. Googling with site: www.toyotanation.com comes up with many links for many different models and the common theme seamed to be remove all the bits and it will fall. I don't know how this goes for older Toys. Yeh, I did a search because I want to know for future use. Unfortunately I haven't run across any info on '94 hilux pickups which is what I have.

The best sound insulation for the money that I have come across is using commercial carpet padding. I lined the floor of my '90 X-cab with it and my truck is nice and quiet even with headers.

You can find an adhesive backed aluminized heat/sound insulation material on the internet. The same stuff they use on the new Corollas and such between the motor and the firewall. Not cheap but very good. I have used it for special applications at the local fire department. Can't recall the name of the stuff, but a simple search will find it. Stuff looks like a shiny quilt.

I plan on getting some stuff from www.fatmat.com.
I think the 50sqft that comes in the package should be enough to do the inside of my short cab.