I got one now! (Hi to those who've not heard from Mr SuperPicky in awhile!)

My Brake Light comes on. Is this just the parking brake switch going bad? Seems at first accel or a subtle turn it will light up. Sometimes pulling the HB and pushing it back kills the light. My fluid levels are between Min and Max. No ABS. I'm ordering a new switch from Gettel incase...189K miles on her...

Could be yer brake fluid sensor on top of the master cylinder. My brake light kept coming on but dim and not consistent all the time...and my fluid was topped up, too!

Since I check my brake fluid all the time...I just unplugged the sensor. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Well, whaddayaknow! Yesterday, it was warmer out (50F? in Dec, in PA??) and the light didn't come on. So I stopped and wanted to look to see something under the hood (clip broke on the hood prop) and I took another look at the brake fluid res...sure enough, it looked like it was 'tween Min-Max but really it was just at Min...so I'm gonna top it off to Max and see what happens. Atleast this means my brakes are wearing...

I've noticed between my old Yotas and my 'new' '99 rig that the sensor for the fluid level is a LOT more sensitive than on the old rigs; if it goes down one smidgen, it'll trip the light, esp on acceleration as described. Topped off, behaves as advertised. Non-abs also.

1/8" drop turns my 93T light on and it is somehow connected to the cruise control as it will not engage with the light on. Keep it on the high side.

Get some sticky backed velcro for the hood prop. Put about a 1 inch strip where the plastic thingy is on the radiator brace and wrap the other half around the shaft. No wiggles, rattles and it works.

Boy has this thread gone all over the place!

Low brake pedal, inconsistent brake pedal, weird feeling brakes. Beware the load sensing proportioning valve! It lives on the frame over the rear axle. There is a bleed nipple on it that is often overlooked. It also sludges up and doesn't work right. Disassemble it and clean it. All by itself, this can frequently fix the whole problem.

Brake light on. The sensor in the fluid tank cover frequently requires the fluid to be at or above the max line in order to stay off. Top up your tank and this can fix things.

Brake light on, part II. If pushing the hand brake forward turns the light out, the red-neck fix is to tape the switch shut. The real problem is the cable not pulling the hand brake handle down. Clean up and lubricate the hand brake mechanisms under the truck.

Well my problem was solved by the stinking rear wheel cylinders only working 50%. Replaced those and the rear shoes and was golden..

It was just overlooked b/c it seemed the problems were coming from the front..or so we thought. After we replaced the calipers (damned remans locked up on me after a year) we figured it out.

What brand did you replace the faulty ones with?

Faulty ones were bendix. I think its partically my fault b/c when I did the brakes one time I took both sides off at the same time (dont do that, pistons came come out) and the piston kinda came outta the one side..

IIRC the new ones are bendix too, but I havent had any issues, well other than them rusting to hell. I think perhaps though that the rear wheel cylinders partically caused it as I drove ALOT of miles with the brakes like that b/c bleeding did nothing we thought it was a fluke..

Why do all parts from the parts store come uncoated? I think I am gonna take the wheels off when it warms up, take my grinder and go to town on them with a wire wheel and paint them.

Because this costs money, is why <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

That's a great idea to coat them. I thought about taking mine apart (the body splits into 2 halves) and spraying them while I was waiting for the rubber kit to come in stock at the dealer. If anyone wants advice to do this there are several write ups with photos on the internet, just search for "girling caliper rebuild." The ones on the Jag are just like ours.