It was bound to happen and it finally did...Destroyed my rear end(too many water crossings without changing my fluids). My question is...What is the best option for me? I have limited funds, maybe an extra 5 or 600 laying around. I have a 4 banger with stock gearing and 32" A/T with 5 sp tranny. I would love to change the gearing to compensate for the weak 4 cyl but think that it would run more then my budget would allow or maybe a locker...Also I'm pretty mechanically inclined(did a transmission{by myself}along with complete suspension), how hard is it to rebuild the rear. Any advise from the guru's on here..Thanks as always. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

You prolly ain't gonna like my responce to your question..
With that limited funds you are bound to simply rebuild what you've got!
From your post I'd say you havn't destroyed your axle! You simply didn't take care of it. You prolly have ruint the bearings and no telling what else.. Most likely the bearings and seals replaced would get you back on the road.
Changing axles and/or gears would cost you a hell of a lot more than you say you have.
You say destroyed...what zackly does that mean?
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the response Jim. Since I've posted I've been researching my options and will need to come up with some more money before I can do anything...I haven't broke into the unit yet but here's what happened. When driving and letting off the gas I started to notice a harsh vibration coming from the rear. Over the holiday I had places to go and had no other means of getting there so I took the chance,,,Last night when I was a few miles from home I could hear this god awful grinding(from the rearend) on deceleration and assumed that it was coming from the rear axle. What will I need to rebuild this thing..I've priced a new set of ring and pinions with rebuild kits and they come close to my budget anything I'm missing? I'd also like to increase the ratio <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

HA!! You may get out of it for 30/40 bucks! FIRST thing to check is the u-joints... You describe a bad u-joint pretty well.
If they are both really tight and good then the NEXT thing is pinion bearings.. I really doubt the R&P went away.
Have you even checked for water in your rearend?
Seems you are going off half cocked..to me anyway. You MUST know what is making the noise before you will have any idea how much it will cost..
Put it up on stands and start her and let it idle while you crawl around listening.. You MUST find the noise before tearing into it.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

I'm a glass half empty kinda guy.LOL..I always look at worst case scenario before anything...I was going to start checking into it on monday(i'm working this weekend and I get home after dark)...Now that I think of it, the way the grinding stops when I accellerate that would definately scream bearings(praying it's bearings)...Thanks, once again, for opening my eyes,,,,Stay safe.. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

It would also scream U-JOINT!!
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

I am with BigJim on this one, you need to find the cause before looking for solutions. otherwise your gonna spend money that does not need to be spent by guessing and your most likely going to "Guess" the wrong thing and still have a down vehicle.

I have seen people foolishly replace transmissions when in fact it was just the spider gears in the rear differential that went bad.

Grinding when decelerating; I would be thinking U-joint or slip joint in the drive shaft. My Ford did this for a long time before I replaced the rear driveshaft. It would wear out rear u-joints in about 6 months because the slip joint in the drive shaft was shot. Any chance you have a SYE kit on your transfer case?

Before you buy anything put it up on jack stands and see if you can pin point the noise.

FYI if you change the gear ratio in the rear axle you have to also change the front to match it otherwise you can't use 4WD.

Sean

Sometimes Jim has clearly been drinking, but he's right on here.

Check stuff before buying anything.

SD

OK, put her on jack stands this AM turned everything couldn't hear any noises but noticed a lot of play in the rear shaft. But it wasn't at the u joints. Went ahead and popped the shaft out and noticed that the play was coming from the pinion shaft. Went to turn the nut and it turned by hand, some ***** was loose and that was where the play was coming from..Pulled the oil seal and bearing out. Also pulled the rear cover off and the oil looked brand new and had no metal or water in it...everything inside look a-ok. The bearing on the pinion shaft looked good and turns free(gonna replace it anyway)Don't see any wear on the visible areas of the pinion...Like I said I always look at the worst case scenario, but I don't order parts until I know what I need...Thanks for the help... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Updated: She's a working....Guess the pinion nut being loose allowed the shaft to shift about 1/2"...But new bearing and oil seal in and she's drove great....Thanks again for the help.....Stay safe Nick