I have beeen off of this list for quite a while. I searched the archive looking for answers to the questions below but did not find what I was looking for.

I **think** that I am beginning to notice some miniscule clutch slipping in the upper gears on spirted acceleration (occasionally the tach is rising faster than the speedo) and the clutch engagement point is at the very upper end of the clutch pedal travel.

Do these clutches typically fail in a benign manner (more and more slip at increasing lower acceleration) of have you heard of catostrophic failures where the rivets wear thru and the lining drops off suddenly. I am trying to access how urgent the clutch replacement needs to be.

Years ago on this list the consensus was that the OEM cluch was the best choise for replacement. Still valid? I surfed to Autozone today and they have several choises available for clutch kits including their Duralast house brand, LUK and Beck Arnly (and heavy duty versions of most of these for an extra $80 to 100). Prices range from about $120 to 250. Has anyone installed a HD version of a clutch in their vehicle? If so, was there a noticeable difference in the force to depress the clutch pedal? My point of view is the stock OEM (2wd, 8.5 inch dia) clutch.

On another list (different vehicle, decades older) a poster that I hold in high mechnical esteem mentioned that he never replaces pressure plates for the first 250-300K miles of use - only the clutch disc. He claims that there is minimal spring fatigue in a pressure plate and if the friction contact surface is good the pressure plate is good. Anyone here follow that philosophy? I have always replaced the pressure plate and disc at the same time.

Does anyone have a loose 2.6L/4WD throw out bearing or T/O brg installed on a clutch fork that they could take a couple of .jpgs of and make a few basic measurements. This may sound like a strange request - but my "Amigo" is a bit of a Frankenstein and I know that the T/O brg is different between the 2.3L & the 2.6L (atleast for '92).

My vehicle started out in life as a 2.3L 2WD. I converted it to 4WD and chaged over toa hydraulic actuated clutch. I am using a MU5 trans as found on the European version of the Amigo (Opel/Vauxhall Frontera) with the the forward trans casting from my old 2WD trans (to be able to mate to the Isuzu 2.3L, the Euros use a different (GM) engine, predecessor to the Ecotech). Clutch and pressure plate (8.5 inch) were reused from my 2.3L Amigo. I reused the throwout brg and fork from the 4WD Frontera donor trans. Up to now I have had 80K trouble free miles with the Frankenstein drivetrain combo. Before special ordering a T/O bearing for a 2.6L, 4WD, I am trying to assure that it will fit - I prefer not to spend money on nonuseable / returnable parts. Otherwise, I need to get a cluch fork from a 2.6L before tearing everything apart - this is my winter daily driver - if I am R&Ring the clutch, I need to be able to do this in a day. The Frontera T/O brg is not making any noise but it has about 120K miles of use on it and I prefer not to reuse it (again).

Thanks for putting up with this long posting.

Mine is a 2.6 - 1990 Amigo. I haven't found much performance difference in clutches. I have spent more money on a name brand aftermarket clutch (Centerforce II) and am just as happy with something "off the shelf" or OEM. I did blow up a clutch once, pulling out some shrubs. It left a ball of fiber and powder in the bellhousing but still got me home.

Agreed with Steve -- for our uses, behind not-so-powerful engines and low-ish revs, most clutches will do the job.

Randii

My clutch failure followed serious abuse (Double Whammy, in Moab), and was accompanied by a smoke cloud. I burn and glazed the friction material, and heat-checked the flywheel and friction plate... but made it up the obstacle. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" /> This is a pretty standard failure mode... catastrophic failure (ejection of friction material) is reasonable rare, but you might want to plan the repair in the near future since the problem is likely to progressively worsen.

If your pressure plate is within spec and is not heat-checked, you can re-use it. I always assess based on the pain-in-the-butt factor, and generally replace the full set of consumables, though, just to guarantee that I won't have to repeat the repair later. YMMV.

BTW, your Frankenstein sounds like a cool project. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Randii

Thanks for the replys.

A few days after the initial posting I was on a (downhill)freeway entrance ramp, accelerating in 4th when the engine zinged up 500 revs before I had a chance to lift off of the throttle. Now I know for certain the clutch is on its last legs. I decided to splurge (extra $70)and have ordered the HD version of the LUK cluthc kit, their "Pro Gold Performance" P/N 09-901. I hope the clutch effort is not too much greater than stock and that it has a smooth take up. With the weight of the trans, this is not a clutch that I would want to replace again anytime soon just because I did not like the feel of it.

Now does anyone have an old throwout bearing laying around that they could take a picture of & post. Bearing needs to be from a 2.6L. Does not matter if it is 2WD or 4WD. Thanks