3.0/auto, LWB, 155K, new battery/TPS/cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Last weekend all of a sudden the washer pumps (F and R) quit working, the idle got really rough, all the lights flicker all the time (head/tail/dash/dome lights) and sometimes (random, not always) turning the ignition key doesn't do anything. It ran just fine since I got it in August, and all in one weekend all this happened, while we were 200 or so miles from home. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> Oh yeah, the lever to change the heat settings (defrost/heat/panel etc) won't move any more, either. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I mean, I know buying an older vehicle means some stuff will happen, but all this at once? Anybody wanna guess what's wrong? THank you.

I know you bought a new battery but is the battery power/Alternator ok? ECU module ok? Not leaking cap's?

As for the heater lever not working, it's likely a separate issue.

Clean up where all the electrical system ataches at the positive battery terminal, where the fusible links are.

The alternator SEEMS OK (It's charging the batt. anyway) The belt got replaced and I just checked the tension (it was loose but tightening it didn't fix the flickering lights). Uhh, my mechanic skills aren't good enough to check the ECU, is that similar to "checking codes"? I have a ton of reciepts for the PO bringing it to a garage for CEL stuff and them "resetting codes". Uh, now that I think of it maybe I should get some professional supervision before I take it apart <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

If you can use a screw driver, you can check the ECU. Its under the dash on the passenger side. I don't have access to pics of mine but you can probably find a pic on the forum or take a pic underneath your dash (whole area underneath passenger side dash) and we can point out where it is.

ecu would not cause fli9ckering lights. Do what I said first...

Solve the electrical first, but when you get around to the lever, it's mechanical, (and as off-roader said, a seperate issue) so you'll need to take the center console out and fiddle around with it to figure out what's wrong. Easy to do, remove the transfer case shifter cover first, then two philips screws on each side of the center console near the bottom (underneath some plastic covers you'll need to pop off) then two black headed phillips screws near the top front. Pull off the lever caps. Pull out center console, taking care not to yank any wires loose. Nothing to be intimidated by. The lever may just need some grease on the sliding surfaces.

I think it is the body/engine grounds gone wild ! Clean or replace them, and check volt drop at the same time
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Fast eddie I bought an IAC with a different size pintle (larger). Is it compatable, or do I need to put a small pintle on the good stepper motor?

Dunno. I'd take some kids modeling clay and stick a wad in the isc port and put in place both isc's (I'd wind in the pintle all the way on both first) and see if the larger pintle interferes with the fidle port or sits deeper/shallower than the stocker. I use this method to check piston-valve clearances. You get fairly accurate measurements if you install the old one first, measure the dimple bottom thickness, then install the new one and see if (a) it sits deeper (one bigger, deeper dimple) or (b) shallower, so you get a big, shallower dimple with the smaller, deeper dimple in the middle. This also checks the alignment of the different pintle with the port.

dang eddie, be serious

It seems to me that the larger could work, I mean the enginerrs could have redesigned the thing. Doesnt look like that though, and the 24 valve does use a bigger throttle body , right?

Was hoping to find the brave soul who has tried it