Hi Folks -

Did a quick search and came up dry. Have a '95 SR that's developed a "knocking" sound when the AC is running - it corresponds to the RPMs (speeds up when revved) and stops when I turn off the AC or the compressor cycles. I checked under the hood and I can see that a pulley on the front of what appears to be the compressor (left side of engine) has a slight wobble. AC works great, blows arctic, just the new knock.

Driver's window - yesterday, LOUD pop inside driver's door and window slowly slid down without motor assist. Pulled the trim off and found a mean overwrap on the spindle of the regulator motor. Pulled the regulator (which still works fine) and opened up the spindle to sort it out. The window, however, does not appear to be conneced to the control cables - the window car still slides up and down the track easily, but the cables don't move with it.

Advice on these two issues?

Intro - I'm new to he forum. Bought the truck in 1996, had the inevitable problem with valve seals and burning oil, rebuilt the motor at 125k miles because she's paid for and worth keeping. Drove x-USA from the Atlantic to the Pacific pulling a boat making fun stops along the way. Just landed in SoCal, passed emissions and now have a front plate for the first time ever.

Within the last 9 months I've replaced both passenger side window regulators & the a/c compressor. You shouldn't need to replace the window motor, just the regulator is what was broken on mine. I got mine for less than $60 each with shipping at Walker's Renton Mitsubishi online.
I had a similar problem with a wobbly clutch on my a/c compressor, so I bought a clutch for it. When I pulled the old clutch off, I found that a chunk had broken off of the end of the shaft so I had to replace the entire compressor. Pricey bugger-found it at a local import shop for $408 + tax, replaced it myself, then had a shop evac & recharge the system for another $160. I'm not sure if the wobble was caused by the broken shaft or if the clutch bearings went out & caused the shaft to break.

If it's like the one's I've had apart, the clutch replacement is pretty easy. Just be sure you remove the right snap ring on the shaft to release the clutch. The wrong one hold the front compressor seal in, and there's pressure behind it. Don't ask how I know...

I'd pull the compressor, leaving the lines attached, so you can see into the front to pull the clutch coil and pulley with bearing.

I've had luck with getting shaft's replaced on a rebuild of my compressor, but that was on a Subie where there was no already rebuilt compressors available. In that case, the compressor case was the unique part, and the guts were common to may compressors of the same size, so the shaft sourcing was not a problem. Anybody know if our compressors are Hitachi or Sanyo or ?brand?

There is a service bulletin about the mounts for the AC pump, they're known to wear out and cause a 'knocking' sound. i think the fix was to put metal washers on the bolts but i honestly can't remember, i merely tightened the belt a little more and the sound went away (likely due to the tension holding the pump in place) haha.

IIRC, my compressor was a Denso. I did have to unbolt the compressor from the mounting bracket in order to access the snap ring & remove the clutch as Fasteddy mentioned.

Nippondenso makes our compressors.

Thanks for the advice, fellas. Much appreciated. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I had AC failure exactly as you described. It still functioned, but I could see the pulley wobbling and it was making all kinds of noise.
I ended up going with a salvage compressor for $100 as I didn't want to mess with trying to replace just the clutch - plus, from what info I could gather a complete compressor from a salvage yard was cheaper than trying to replace parts. Removal/installation couldn't have been more straightforward, and if you find the right shop an evac/recharge shouldn't cost more than $50.