I have searched for a damper for my clutch and unable to find that my rodeo even has one. The mechanic said it does, but it is on national back order. My Rodeo is only 2 wheel drive and 4 cylinder. Do you have any ideas of how I can find it and to know if it is really my issue?

Thanks

im not sure bout isuzu, but if the master cylinder is at an upward angle like some mazda's you'll have to take it out and bench bleed it to get all the air out. this may not help but good luck with your misfortunes anyway <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

ok, stupid question here: i transfered the clutch/flywheel pieces from my 3.1L manual to the 3.4L automatic. would the 3.4L automatic have had a pilot bushing? is the pilot bushing part of the pieces i transfered? pressed into the flywheel or where? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Pilot bearings/bushings are pressed into the end of the crankshaft. It's not part of the flywheel. It's sole purpose is to make sure the shaft stays aligned without flexing. If it's seized or burred it will grab the end of the transmission shaft and keep the gears turning even if your clutch is performing as it should.

ok, thanks for that clarification RT1. i am thinking that there was a pilot bushing present, since the clutch alignment tool fit snugly in place. i am going to give the hydraulics one last going over this weekend. if that doesn't get things in order i'll pull everything apart again.

If it is the pilot they can be a bear to get out. Rent or buy the pilot bearing tool. You can make one if you're cheap (like me) out of a big carriage bolt and a few odd plumbing parts if you have a grinder at your disposal. The key is to pull the bearing straight out. Yank on it at an angle and you'll be there for a lo-o-ng time, as in forever.

For the carriage bolt tool get one with a head bigger than the inside diameter of the bearing and grind it down to a pointy egg shape, Just small enough to slip inside the bearing at an angle but big enough to catch the inside of the bearing on both sides when you straighten it up. Throw a spacer over the bolt end (bigger than the outside of the bearing, 1-1/2" plumbing coupling works) a big fender washer, a nut and tighten it down. Mine popped out in four turns... this is after four hours of trying to yank it out with tools completely unsuited to the task. Good luck with it.

When is the last time the cluch was changed? sometimes the failed clutch can cause the same effect. ck to see if the hydralics are working see if arm attatched to the throw out bearing is moveing.

the clutch fork does move, just not very much. i can look through the small opening and see the throwout bearing(?) press against the clutch pressure plate. but it doesn't appear to have much force as it comes in contact with the pressure plate. entire clucth was replaced less than 40K ago(maybe less). going to replace the hydraulic lines with a single ss line this week. thanks.

Replacing the rubber hose could help all of our clutches. There are a lot of SS clutch hose replacments on line for racey cars. I would like to find a Braded SS brake hose that would be a direct replacment. A hose shop will prbably make one up for you.

John

well. stainless hose didn't improve things. in process of taking things apart now. thanks for all the input. i'll post what i find.