After seeing with my own eyes how worn the parts in question were, I'm hesitant to use Moog again. They did, as in "used to," build the best stuff around, but I'm none too impressed with how quickly they wore out. Not like it's really a big deal, though...I'd only have to buy them once and then it's warranty stuff from there.

On another note, I got through emissions with no problem, and no one was in line, so it took maybe ten minutes. I also transferred the title and got a license plate good until 10-15-10, and had my insurance agent have a look at it so they could add comprehensive coverage, which they wouldn't do until they could make sure it had a good windshield and there weren't a ton of dents all over it. They had previously enacted liability, uninsured/underinsured and towing over the phone. I always carry a zero deductible on the glass, too, and have used it several times. Now, if I just lived in a zip code like Paul's, maybe I wouldn't be sending them nearly as much money every month.

Toasty kind of briefed me on how to mask, sand and paint the plastic cladding on the lower body yesterday. I think it's something I can do and it would make a huge difference in the way the truck looks. Not that there's anything wrong with the scuffs, scrapes and fading... He also picked me up a set of Aisin manual hubs at the junkyard today. I figure I can get them on and take a little rolling resistance and driveline wear out of the front end. I'm sworn to secrecy as to where he got them and especially how much they cost.

LT, the bushing kit NAPA listed is supposedly for the 95. I should probably think twice, though, as they have screwed things up for me with the Scion lately...

So, next weekend, I may still not be able to hit the trail, but I'll be getting closer!

John B.

Idler and Pitman have been ordered.

Any tips for doing the lower ball joints would be appreciated. I'm assuming: Jack up truck in center at front crossmember, remove wheel, let torsion out of torsion bar, place bottle jack under lower arm, loosen, but do not remove nut holding lower ball joint, seperate, make sure jack is holding arm, remove nut and lower the arm, remove bolts holding in ball joint and replace. Reverse procedure.

Correct?

John B.

I've never done ball joints on a Monty, but done 'em on 2 troopers and a s10.. on both of those it goes something like this:

• Buy new ball joints
• Lay out all the tools you will need for the job (check bolt sizes etc in advance so you don't have to get up 300 times)
• Jack up front of truck at center, remove tires, put jack stand under A-arm, lower truck onto A-arms
• Remove hub retainer on axle shaft from side you're working on
• Curse and yell and punch a nearby baby in the face to manage pain from whatever you probably just hurt yourself on
• Loosen but do not remove lower ball joint castle nut
• try pounding on spindle up near UCA with a mallet to see if you're lucky enough that it separates
• When that fails, get out the pickle fork and swear word dictionary, you'll need both
• Pickle fork the hell out of the ball joint
• Repeat with top one, you may have to pull axle shaft out of the way
• Un-bolt the ball joints from the arms (or grind off rivets, if retained that way)
• USE LOC TITE ON BOLTS WHEN REINSTALLING NEW BJ'S
• NO SERIOUSLY, USE LOC TITE
• LOTS OF IT
• reassembly is reverse of disassembly
• Get some sleep, because there's a good chance you've been working on this all day by now
• Get started on the other side, same process
• Yay now you can get an alignment!

So.. not sure if all the steps are precisely the same on a monty... and if yours came from anywhere rusty you'll want to quadruple the amount of swearing you were prepared for and have a couple rolls of paper towels handy for the blood.

It's a piece of cake johnny, you've got it. It took about an hour and a half per side on my '99 and about 2.5 hour per side on my '94 because of the rust on the bolts and the bolts that snapped. you'll need a little sledge hammer.

Whats up fellah's... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
Well I guess I'm going to send my baby to Big 2 mitsubishi.
It sound like my valves are not in good condition
So I think ill be sending my engine for a second time and see what exscuse's they'll give next time.

I wanted you guys to a look @ it. Im probably going to end up sueing, and if I do then im going to need some invoices showing the work, and didn't want to get any envolved <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Big two eh? I bet they will think you bent a push rod. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Good luck they have a master tech there <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />

I am still having trouble getting my lower ball joints out of this truck (95 SR). FastEddy suggested that I may still have too much "crank" in the torsion bar, so tonight I will be trying to let as much out as possible to get enough clearance to get them out. I went so far as to knock the upper ball joint loose so the knuckle is free, but I can't seem to maneuver the knuckle enough to get the threaded part of the lower ball off the spindle. For the record, the adjuster for the torsion bar is backed way off, but it looks like there's still more thread left so that's next...

And, of course, with the front sway bar on (don't even go there, it's staying on for now!), I can't get a socket (32mm) on the nut for the Pitman arm, so I get to buy another wrench!

John B.

I'm not sure what's so different with Monty ball joints.... I've never fiddled with torsion bars when changing uppers or lowers in a Trooper or S10 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

jbfp have you taken the c clip off the axle so you can move the knuckle around it will come off no need to lower the t-bars

Finally, the voice of reason; thank you again. Toasty, too, he learned not to leave his phone inside for when I start to want to throw wrenches.

The second side of the truck went much smoother overall. Of course. The trick is as LT said, don't bother with the torsion bars. Pop the upper ball joint, the outer tie rod end then the bottom ball joint (bottle jack under arm at all times). Pull the clip out of the hub and maneuver away. Having a helper was the only way I could imagine doing it, but I guess it must be possible to get everything in place with some more smarts.

I now have new upper and lower ball joints, a new Pitman arm, new idler arm. Oh, and a set of Aisin manual hubs. Going for an alignment on Friday.

John B.