The jeep is running great but I have the noisy timing chain (124,000) and I'm assuming it has never been changed. I am going to attempt this myself since a shop wants $500.00 and I have walked through the process in the manual and I believe I can do it. I think these parts are the ones but I have a couple questions.


1)The gasket set is avail. with or w/out a "sleeve&seal" where an oil pan gasket is required. What is that and will I need that?

2)The timing set includes the tensioner and dampener but it is available w/out. Does the tensioner and dampener normally need changing too?

3)The T.C. seal is also avail. w or w/out the "sleeve&seal", which should I get?

My engine code on the block reads:53008403

Thanks for any help. I searched for a write-up on the 2.5 timing gear change and didn't find one. Dave

edit: crap, the links I put up to the napa site defaulted to the generic master page <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

The job is not difficult. You will need regular hand tools, torque wrench and a puller for the vibration damper.
Good time to replace the belts - they will be off anyway. Inspect hoses/clamps and replace the thermostat too...
Inspect the water pump too, I always replace the pump and thermostat when changing a timing set.
Clean every thing around the timing cover before removing any bolts.
Timing gears and chain should be replaced as a set.
Get a "timing cover kit" which should contain all gaskets needed and maybe the seal.
When you have it all apart, check the crankshaft seal surface for a groove. If it has a groove worn in, probably good to get a sleeve (don't forget sleeve adhesive) else the new seal will leak. Use a light film of new oil on the seal and seal surface of crankshaft when installing a new seal, you don't want any nicks or cuts.
Use the opportunity of having parts disassembled and removed to inspect everything you would not normally have access to.
The parts house will have to help with zackly which timing set you require.. If in doubt purchase tow or more different sets and check which you need when apart.
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Thanks Big Jim. I already got a thermostat and I thought about the water pump as well. I guess it makes sense to replace that too. So the "sleeve & seal" is to use if there is a groove worn in the crankshaft seal surface and I should get the kit with the "sleeve & seal" just in case, correct? The kits seem to come either with or without them.

If the front seal isn't presently leaking chances are great you won't need the sleeve.. I don't advise using one unless the balancer has a deep groove in it. The things can be a PAIN and cause leaks themselves.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

For the puller for the vibration damper check to see if you have a local Harbor Freight tools in your area. You can get the set for less than $10.00. I just did my first and it was a breeze.

p.s.Don't forget to replace the oil slinger. I have found in the past if you take a pic or two prior to teardown it will help with the memory when putting everything back together again.

have fun with it, don't stress,

kerby2

Thank you both for the help. I'm sort of looking forward to it actually. I'll post my results. Dave

You can also set the new crank seal deeper or shallower then where it originally was so the new seal won't be in the grove made by the old seal. Just a Poor Boy trick I learned when I was younger.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I use the little generic glad style snack baggies to hold bolts and screws. You mark them with a sharpie marker and put them in a plastic tackle box and you tend not to lose as many parts that way. I'm also a clean freak, so I clean the engine down as best I can before embarking on a job, it makes life easier, and if there are leaks after re-assembly for whatever reason, they are easy to spot. If you have a harmonic balancer, get the right puller, as anal as this sounds I have seen 2 mishaps using gear pullers, instead of a harmonic balancer puller. I forgot to mention nitrile gloves and mechanix gloves are real skin savers. Put a little talcum powder on the outside before sliding the mechanix over the nitriles.

I got right to it last night and so far so good. I Have the alt. out of the way, the therm. housing off, the water pump off, and mostly cleaned up. I'm going to Harbor Freight and napa this morn. to get a puller and I'm replacing the therm. housing and therm. while I have them off.

How should I thread that brass heater tube back into the new water pump housing? Any sealer, teflon tape?

I'm also not sure how to move the power steering pump aside. I removed about four bracket bolts an that sucker isn't moving. The water pump slipped out from behind it but it will never go back in with the gasket and sealer on it.
Thanks for the help.

On my 89 Cherokee, there is a bolt directly behind the P/S pump that bolts the rear aluminum bracket to the intake manifold. To remove that bolt, you have to remove the P/S pump from the rear bracket. To do that, you remove the 2 bolts in the back of the P/S pump then remove the 3 front steel bracket bolts (1 - upper right, 2 - on left side). Your P/S pump should be able to come out and still be connected to the front bracket.

Good luck.

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