I'm swapping in a Chevy 350 V8 carburated engine in my 88 4Runner. I had a V6 previously. I'm mating the stock 5 speed to the V8. I'm going to get rid of any unnecessary wiring, and leave the things i need hooked up. Here's the list of things I need. Please look it over to make sure I'm not missing anything. Thanks!


Wiper motor and wiper fluid pump
headlights, turn signals, marker lamps
cruise control (I might just yank it)
starter relay (going to re-use for Chevy starter)
horn
oil pressure sender
coolant temperature sender
tachometer (is this part of the igniter? Where do I hook it to the Delco HEI distributor? have to figure out.)
brake fluid (might yank this too)
headlight relay fuse box under hood
a/c clutch (OBA use possibly)
4wd indicator switch on trans
headlight control relay on inner fender
neutral start switch on trans


Did I miss anything?

A few other things you may want to consider:

What altermator are you runnning (1 wire, 4 wire)? They wire up differently

Are you running an electric choke? you need a keyed on 12v for that.

HEI is a snap. you need a keyed on 12v, it will connect to the rear terminal on the distributor cap, as it is installed. the one in the front is for your tach.

My opinion, cut out the wires for the electric sending units and go with mechanical guages.

Electric fan?

Be sure to ground everything properly, heavy welding wire works great for battery cables, alternators, and grounds.

Hope that helps some.

Thanks.

It's a 1 wire alternator.

Taurus electric fan. I have a hayden controller ready to hook up.

Electric choke.

I planned on running all new grounds and power cables, heavy gauge.

You say I should go with mech gauges? I guess they are more accurate than the Toy gauges? Would it be possible to keep the Toy dash gauges functioning, and add a set of mech gauges elsewhere?

Anyone else?

I've got the harness all untaped and ready to start stripping. I'm going to cut out anything I don't need.


One question about the tach hookup. I hook one of the two wiring coming out of the igniter going to the coil to the terminal on the HEI distributor. Which one? Positive or negative? Any way to tell without the igniter hooked up? I think they are both black.

Then I will have to modify the tach to go from reading a 6cy signal to a 8 cy signal. I've seen 4 to 6, but no 6 to 8. Anyone got any links or info?

I think you might be making this more complicated than you need...

When I did my 4.3 swap years ago, all I did was make a few minor connections to the existing harness and call it good.
-ignition
-constant
-starter
-alt
-A/C
-Tach
-oil pressure

I used the Downey adapter for the alt, just because it made it cleaner, but wasn't really necessary.

Then again, I started with a 22r truck, not a fuel injected...

Yea, theres quite a bit of unnessesary wiring with the EFI. Whole mess of injector plugs, MAF, cold start timer, ecu temp sensor, bunch of vacuum switch plugs, and some other junk. I'm not going to just bundle up a huge pile of wires, I'm going to cut them out and make it look decent.

Why not just pull out the engine harness with the 3.0, and build a new one? The lights harness should not connect to the engine harness (AFM, injectors, etc), You should be able to unplug the ECU and pull the harness right through the firewall.

The harness had a bunch of plugs on it, a few go to the ECU and a few more go to the cab wiring. So I need still need to use the factory plugs, unless I cut the plugs off and made my own. I don't want to introduce electrical problems by adding multiple wiring connections. If I keep the factory wires, then I know theres only the single factory connections, not a bunch of homemade connections and what not.

i did what brian did when i swapped in my 350. i tied into the factory harness for ignition,alt, starter, a/c etc. i started with a 22re so i took all of the unused ecu wires and cut them off just a few inches from the ecu and capped them with shrink tube. for instruments i used the toyota instruments and used metric to sae adapters so they could screw into the chevy block. to resuse your tach (i am going from memory so double check me) connect in on the (-) side of the ignition wiring. to calibrate i temp wired in a 0-500 ohm potentiometer in series but i forget what wire, then dialed in the tach with a temporary tach that you would use to set timing. then measured the resistance of the pot and installed a resistor for that value. the tach was not very linear its accuracy fell off on the higher end of the range, but not too bad.
hope this helps.