i have 86 trooper 2 with 2.3 4cyl 5 speed, what would be the easiest v6 motor swap? will this transmission bolt up to a 2.8 gm ?

Nope, you'd need the drivetrain out of a V6 model; the bellhousing bolt patterns are different. One thing that might simplify your swap is that you could run a GM V6 (I'm thinkin' 3.4!!!) with a carbureted intake off an S-10, or aftermarket Edelbrock Performer with a Holley 390CFM 4-bbl (or 500CFM 2-bbl for even more fun!).

Best bet is to find a rusted or wrecked donor vehicle. Plenty of them around, check your local www.craigslist.org for sale section or try www.car-part.com for online search of wrecking yards across the continent.

HTH........ed

how much room with the 3.4 ? i dont want to shoehorn it in. are we talking about a 4x4 blazer swap or a s-10 transfer case and transmission swap or does it matter ? the intake and carb won't be a problem if i stay with either i dont think . i m going to do this and i dont really want a lot of fabrication, welding etc.

V6 swap into a 4cyl Trooper requires fabrication/welding. No way around it.

The GM 60 deg V6 (in any of its RWD iterations - 2.8, 3.1, 3.4) fits a Gen I Troop just fine.

Or, find a later-model Isuzu-built V6 drivetrain such as was done by Chad Hunter; here's info from a Very Very old post by Chad:

"I have a '94 3.2 in my '87 trooper. I used the '94 tranny as well. The crossmember is in the same place on both trucks. I cut off the rodeo's motor mounts and welded
them in my trooper. The motor fits great and it looks factory. The only trouble is that the e-brake won't work with the v6, I'm still working on that one. If you can
find a good donor vehicle I think that this swap is a good option"

You'd have to go EFI on this swap though, since the later Isuzu-built 3.2's and 3.5's are MPFI. IMHO the GM-V6 swap would be tons easier since you can do it carb'd.

It'd be far far easier to start off with a donor Isuzu V6 rig than it would be to adapt something else like S-10 drivetrain but anything can be done with much determination I reckon!

WERD!!

It's been done though, I think <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Wow, its been a while.
That 3.2 I stuck in that old troop is still alive. I have tried my best to kill it, but it just keeps going. It even runs upside down.
I now have an old amigo body centered on that trooper frame.

Anyway, I was lurking around here trying to find out any info on stroking the 3.2 out to 3.5, I have distant memories of it being discused here once upon a time.
Does any one know of such a thread?

I built a class 3 and I would like more horsies to help run down those pesky V8's

Hi,

Been lurking here for a while and am in the process of building a 90 Amigo, sas, with a gm v60. Here's a link to the GM 60 degree family http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_60-Degree_V6_engine. The late 80's early 90's Troopers and Rodeos used the GM 2.8 and 3.1 V6's. So in theory most of the GM family of motors will at least bolt to a v6 Isuzu of the correct years. From there is gets more sticky.

The 3.4 gm crate engine has been swapped into Isuzus originally equipped with a GM v60 and with swapping of all the externals it appears to be painless with the exception of drilling the starter mounting bolts.

Camaro/Firebird 3.4's seem to be very popular swaps again with the starter bolt mod. These engines appear to becoming more scarce as they are popular with the S10 and Fiero community.

FWD GM V6's have the starters on the left side so they appear to have potential but the latest model 3500 (04-07)doesn't have all the left side engine mount bosses. Too bad because this would be a 200+hp stock swap. When I say stock swap there are a number of mods required the most challenging would be the electronic controls. Could be accomplished with a Mega Squirt but challenging for some of us. The same issue exists with any of the non carburated or TBI engines (but many of the 3400 blocks do have the mount bosses).

I'm picking up a 91 Rodeo doner this weekend with the GM 3.1. As soon as I confirm it has the larger valves (same as the crate motor) I'll pick up a low mileage LG8 3400, ditch the al heads (head gasket issues), rebuild and bolt on the iron 3.1 heads, intake, TBI and injectors (swapped from a 4.3), plug in the ecu and rock and roll.

Well it's not going to be quite that easy but there's tons of info out there on the minor mods required. Search the S10/60degree V6 forums for more info.

I'm in the middle of my sas but only get to work on it one day a week so progress is a little slow. Details are standard waggy (61" wms/wms), 4.56, True Trak, Deaver 9 leaf sua, shackle back, dual Bilstein 7100's, air bumps.

Shawn

Shawn, the heads on the Rodeo 3.1 are identical to those of the Goodwrench HT 3.4 crate motor. As are the heads of a 2.8 Trooper.

The HT 3.4 does have upgraded valve springs and valve spring retainers, to go with the HT's upgraded cam.

The HT's cam/springs/retainers would be a highly-recommended upgrade for a 3.1/3.4 build (only of course if using a RWD block; FWD blocks will have probably have roller lifters/cam for which there aren't many options).

BTW if you intend on bolting RWD cast-iron heads to the FWD block, you'll also need to change the pistons. FWD pistons have a large dish (which corresponds to the much smaller squish area of the FWD aluminum heads). If you used dished pistons with cast-iron heads the compression ratio will be quite low.

You'll want to use RWD 3.1 pistons and the only applications for those are Rodeo/P'up, Camaro/Firebird, and '90's vintage GM FWD minivans which used the iron-headed TBI motor.

Sealed-Power carries some very nice pistons with teflon coating on the piston skirts. This helps with the 3.1's infamous Dreaded Piston Slap Syndrome. I used them in an '89 Trooper 2.8-to-3.1 'stroker' project and they are SWEET ! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

You might find this Fiero message thread interesting:

http://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/fiero/s...mp;thread=081409&style=printable

Cheers..........ed

p.s. don't forget if you use one of the newer FWD 3400's you'll also have to deal with the issue of the cast-aluminum oil pan. You can't use the 4WD stamped-steel pan on these motors; the main bearings are cross-bolted thru the pan.