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general shop Q #873664 03/06/08 10:06 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 51
R
RustNeverSleeps Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
I snapped a head bolt off, leaving about .25 in. on the block (1986 22R). The only ways I can think to remove the rest of the bolt are: A) torch the block and use vise grips to twist bolt; B) weld a hunk of steel onto the bolt and use vise grips to twist bolt (meaning I have to get a welder--will oxy-acetylene work?); C) drill out bolt and use an easy-outer to twist bolt(which has NEVER worked for me and I've even snapped the easy-outer into the bolt!). Advice on the above or other suggestions? Thx, RustNSs

Re: general shop Q [Re: RustNeverSleeps] #873665 03/06/08 10:46 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 212
O
outdoorfan Offline
Wheeler
Don't know myself, but it wouldn't hurt to read this:

http://www.apple.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/BoltRemoval.html

Re: general shop Q [Re: outdoorfan] #873666 03/06/08 10:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,153
4Crawler Offline
Web Wheeler
*****
I've had good luck with welding something to the end of the broken bolt. Good option is to find a nut that fits over the bolt then weld in the hole, fusing the bolt to the nut. Often, the extreme heat shock of welding will help break the bolt loose. I did one stuck diff. fill plug like that and after welding on a nut, it almost came out by hand.

I imagine oxy welding might work, have never tried it for that purpose. You'll need a pretty good size torch to heat things up enough to weld. Might also try brazing the nut on.

Re: general shop Q [Re: RustNeverSleeps] #873667 03/07/08 12:12 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,568
Snowtoy Offline
Roll Me Over
Quote
C) drill out bolt and use an easy-outer to twist bolt(which has NEVER worked for me and I've even snapped the easy-outer into the bolt!)


Me too, and that is if the drill bit doesn't break off in the bolt first.

Welding a nut to the bolt will be your best option, though not having a welder on hand doesn't make it a real option. Is the block still in teh truck, if not you could take it to a shop, shouldn't be more than $10 for them to weld something on it.

Since you have a torch, I would spray some penetrating oil first, let it sit overnight, and then try torch and visegrips.


More than tread lightly. Leave it like you were never there, nor anyone else.
'90 X-cab 4.88's 33 BFG AT's, rr ARB, Headers, Ignition upgrade, cold air induction.
'91 X-cab 5.29's 315's BFG MT's, rr ARB, custom bumper and flatbed
Re: general shop Q [Re: 4Crawler] #873668 03/07/08 04:15 AM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 51
R
RustNeverSleeps Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Great info. Thanks. I shot the bolt with WD40 and will try to budge the bolt with vice grips tomorrow (it is still in the truck). If no-go I'll find (buy--sigh!) a welding unit and do the weld-on-a-nut thing (I need one anyway, but the price of replacing a head just doubled). That seems most likely to work.

Re: general shop Q [Re: RustNeverSleeps] #873669 03/07/08 05:44 AM
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 4,230
OOP'S Offline
Roll Me Over
Quote
Great info. Thanks. I shot the bolt with WD40 and will try to budge the bolt with vice grips tomorrow (it is still in the truck). If no-go I'll find (buy--sigh!) a welding unit and do the weld-on-a-nut thing (I need one anyway, but the price of replacing a head just doubled). That seems most likely to work.


Take the WD-40 and put it on the shelf. Now go buy some real penetrating oil, Koil (sp), or PB Blaster. All WD-40 is good for is water dispersing (what the WD stands for) or removing the gum stickers leaves behind.


David Fritzsche
1990 Ex-Cab V-6,5-speed, with a few mods
04.5 CTD Dodge 2500 Ram--Tow Rig
Roseville, CA

"Serenity through Sobriety"
Re: general shop Q [Re: OOP'S] #873670 03/07/08 06:54 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,568
Snowtoy Offline
Roll Me Over
OOP's is right.

WD40 isn't a penatrating oil, not for what you need, and they should really stop marketing it as such.


More than tread lightly. Leave it like you were never there, nor anyone else.
'90 X-cab 4.88's 33 BFG AT's, rr ARB, Headers, Ignition upgrade, cold air induction.
'91 X-cab 5.29's 315's BFG MT's, rr ARB, custom bumper and flatbed
Re: general shop Q [Re: Snowtoy] #873671 03/07/08 10:37 AM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 139
VanillaTHUNDA Offline
Wheeler
Quote
WD40 isn't a penatrating oil, not for what you need, and they should really stop marketing it as such.


But it has a million uses and counting!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />

But I agree- WD-40 is WAY overused- I use PB Blaster and it pretty much kicks ass.

Re: general shop Q [Re: RustNeverSleeps] #873672 03/07/08 11:41 AM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 457
D
Davepet Offline
Mudrunner
PB Blaster has impressed the he!! out of me recently. Before that I swore by "JB80":
http://www.justicebrothers.com/pages/products/products_specialty.htm
Still not sure which works better since neither one has ever failed to "get er done".
PB Blaster seems to be easier to find around here. If either one fails, you need a torch....

Dave

Re: general shop Q [Re: Davepet] #873673 03/07/08 02:18 PM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 456
dknight Offline
Mudrunner
I used to swear by PBblaster until I tried
Kano Labs Kroil oil. Check out http://www.kanolabs.com/.
It is better IMO - you have to be a company to order it - for home use I'm "firstname lastname and associates" (which is actually a company sometimes).

If you try an easyout get a lefthand drill bit. If either break off you are basically done unless you can weld something to the leftover piece.

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