No, mine is the latch itself is working it's way off the shaft... Bad bushing or something. You can actually move the latch in and out on the shaft about 1/4"!

After putting the 10 cent euro piece in (a little thicker than a US quarter), it seals up fine. No more wind noise (the reason it drove me nuts).

Ahhh... i got a few extra latches... when it gets warm i'll check my garage out for ya...

another of the most common annoyances amongst early toys is engine ticking. i have yet to hear a 3.0 that doesnt sound like it has a million ball bearings in the oil pan.

and i almost forgot. the cupholders are only good for cans, not cups

Cup holders ABOVE the radio and such are GREAT!!!! Black coffee is a great solvent for dirt and grease from your hands. Works on computer keyboards too. (Wipe with a towel, don't pour it on).

Seat belts +1

Bolts holding in radiator face the grill, not the engine compartment.

Crunching turn stops on A arms.

Valve Noise, Seat belts don't retract, Steering stops squeak, Horn button wears out every two years right before inspection time, Dash cracked, Blower is slowing down, Bed rusting out.
Original owner, 166,000 mi. wouldn't trade it for five Jeeps and a Bronco.

+1 on slow blower motor. I'm hoping when I get around to putting Roger's brushes in it that it will speed back up? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

Hum, I love posting this post. Here we go:

-Lost headlight electrical switch
-Non working Oil Pressure Gauge/Sensor
-Blown Heater Resister
-Frozen Driver side key cylinder
-extremem slow Wiper Motor in -20c cold weather
-tensioner pulley bearing
-Rear left wheel bearing exploded & balls self-grinded to powder, with extension of axle shaft 2 feet outward resting off the axle housing during a parking lot right turn!
-Lost wiper & windshield fluid control from electrical switch
-Seat belt not retracting
-Cold outside air blowing in toward passenger feet area
-can remove key from key cylinder at all positions
-Frozen parking brake cable / linkage mechanism
-Rusty undersides (outside below doors)
-Squeezqy steer-bump stop
-non-functioning oem spare tire lowering system
-leaking manifold/downpipe interface (& those 3 studs strip at all times!)
-broken front grill clips (held by tiny zipties)
-Burning oil (no blue/black smoke though)
-non-functioning ABS
-broken lspv rod
-broken fuel pump - wire solder contact
-occasional fluctuating rpm
-high starting rpm at cold temp
-occasional working 4wd light (~once/yr, last time it worked was at only around -30c)
-frozen lower control arms alignment cams
-soaked powersteering hose on outside (from top of the bend downward)
-corroded/bursted brake lines along frame rail
-corroded looking fuel line next to frame rail
-flat-saggy rear springs (one side more than the other)
-tranny oil leak from 2 locking pins above shifter seat.
-split cv boots
-loosey pitman arm bushing / lower ball joints

of course, this is all from a 18yrs old 354xxxkm truck lol. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Yep, good place to thaw out frozen "beverages". <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

seatbelts
horn contacts
rear pinion seal leak
1st gen 5 speed bearings
seized e-brake pivot arms
seized spare tire mechanism
front d-shaft cv joints
slave cylinder leaks
RUST
broken off muffler back tailpipe
rusted bed panel where tail pipe exited (see above)<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />
leaky rear main seal
shifter seat wear
clutch master cylinder

Bed and frame rust are a major problem on 80's model Toyota's. It's a constant inspection and repair issue.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Grooves in timing chain cover on 22 R-e after plastic chain guide breaks...causing water to get in the oil and vice versa
Most expensive lesson I've ever been taught (replacing first engine block then cylinder head)