when snow wheeling I had a problem with my alternator.
while trying to fix it I was shocked at how hot the rag joint had gotten.
I have a header and had been running 4000 to 5000 rpm now and then.
it was WAY flexible and the steering felt a bit loose.
I have been told before to remove it for rock crawling.
when I took these pictures I notice the burned wire on my wifes truck. it crosses the rag joint. I am now wondering if that is the problem that Toyota's have with the starter not always working. the famous click click.. but nothing from the starter??

anyways.
stock rag joint set up.


there are two bolts and two studs.
I removed the bolts and beat the studs out. turned the wheel 90 degrees and bolted it back up.
the hole line right up.
I would have left the studs, but they did not bolt down tight.
so I just used the bolts.
a little bit more vibration feed back though the wheel, but not bad. Now I don't notice it at all.



the left over parts.

I do not think you will have a problem, but remember your body flexs different then the frame. So I would check it every once in a while when you go wheeling.

Probably want to make sure the shaft can extend/compress freely, since part of the rag joint's function is to absorb those sorts of motions as the body/frame flex, as mentioned by Oops:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Docs/BodyLift_HowTo.shtml#RecirculatingBall

If the header is putting out enough heat to soften the rag joint, you could add/fab up heat deflector shield on the under side of the header, or add some heat wrap to the section of the header that is near the joint.

The starter is on the other side of the engine, and the infamous click-click is just from having turned over 1000's of times, though if you have a 6cyl w/headers, the heat will kill a starter.

yeh the slip joint moves pretty freely.
I had to melt out the plastic lock part when I extended it for my cross over.
on my wifes truck I am going to leave it for now.
see how mine works out and she has the extra parts for hers now.