Hey Guys, I am new to the Forum and have a few questions. I am re-gearing my 1994 Toyota 4x4 and will be installing ARB lockers front and rear. I have spent a few weeks trying to decide on the best way to go about the switch and have decided on the following:

1) I have acquired a used front Diff and plan on re-building with a new set of 4:88 gears and ARB locker. I have pulled the diff cover off and it looks good on the inside, however I believe the bearing on the pinion gear is very bad as it is hard to turn and appears to have a fair amount of slack, the other bearings in there look good.


Question 1: What all should I get to re-build this Diff? I think I want all new bearings, seals (I have new 4:88 ring and pinion) does all this come in a ôinstall kitö oh and yes I am buying the ARB locker also. Yes I still have the IFS up front, I am not doing a SAS.

2) I am looking for a used 3rd for my rear axel, my truck is a 4cy. My plan is to build this used 3rd with my new ring and pinion gears and new ARB locker. Same question as above, what all should I get for the re-build? Also will a 3rd out of a V6 truck fit in my truck (4cy)? If I was to decide to buy a new 3rd already with 4:88Æs and ARB from say marlin crawler could and should I get the v6 3rd? On their site I believe it sayÆs if I have a 4cy then I need to get the $40 bearing kit for the rear 3rd. What is that exactly?

3) Now, if I canÆt find someone that I trust knows how to setup these gears and install the lockers around home who would you guys recommend? And what is a reasonable price to pay for all this?

Thanks in advance for all your help.

Sorry for the novel.

Eddie

For starters at least:

www.car-part.com

www.gearinstalls.com Zuk is a member here, PHX.

www.marlincrawler.com

We've got a guy parting out a '90 4R in the F/S right now, can't recall offhand if it's V6 or not. Take a look.

Welcome! We also have the FSM for a 93 sticky'd at the top of this section; check it out.

The answer is easy, yes rebuild everything in both, you should get new bearings w/the gear install kit, and you will need bearing kits for the ARB's.

You don't need to get a V6 rear if all you have is a 4cyl. the v6 rear is a 4 pinion instead of a 2 pinion rear end which makes it stronger, stronger for the increased torque of the v6, not really nec. for wheeling. The V6 bearings cost more than double, the $40 bearing kit is for the side bearings, a gear install kit will have the bearings needed for the pinion, and a new pinion crush sleeve.

Prices, expect to pay about $75/hour for bench work, i.e., you bring the diffs into a shop, and expect about 2-3 hours/diff. A good shop shouldn't take more than 1.5 hrs/diff, but you never know so best to figure a little longer.

You can't beat <a href="www.davezoffroadperformance.com/" target="_blank">Davez Offroad Performance</a>, on price for a complete 3rd. I paid $1150 last may for a 5.29/ARB 3rd member. You will have to ship a core to them, or pay more.

I am not sure where you are located, but here is a listing from Craigslist in Placerville, Ca for a set of 4.88 IFS front and rear ARB for $1k. I know you already have the front gears, but for $1k it would be hard to beat, or you if you are to far away, you could pick up a 4.87 diff from an auto truck/runner usually under $200, and run just the rear ARB until you determine if you need for a front locker. I know you want a front ARB as well, but going from open to rear ARB will be a night and day difference, and this route would save you an easy $1k.

I have a rear ARB in my '90 and I have never really found the need for adding a front one. I have an auto-locker in the front of my '91(came w/the gears), and a rear ARB, and even on the Rubicon I found the ARB rear was all I really needed. With the auto-locker upfront I have to tap the brakes to get it to engage, something I rarely think about doing, so I hardly use it.

Thanks for the info guys. I am in South Louisiana by the way. So Snowtoy, I understand by your post I really don't need a 3rd out of a v6 truck but if I find one at a good price will it fit in my housing without any modifications?

When you say I need bearing kits for the ARB's, is that in addition to the bearings that come with the install kits?

Thanks again for the help guys.

Yep a v6/turbo diff will bolt right in and has a stronger housing as well (more gusseted/beefier) but not super necessary.
For front diff, you might want to look into going high pinion (if solid front axle)

Most all of the diffs after 90 and later are the V-6 type if it had a 4 or 6 cylinder. Same goes for the front brake calipers after 90 most came with the v-6 type calipers where all the pistons are the large size. There are some instances where this is not true and there are some instances where there are two spider gears compared to four. I have never seen one but they show it in the FSM.

No, you don't need a v6 rear, if you find one and your 4 cyl. is still the 4cyl 2 pinion and not the 4 pinion as OOP's mentioned Toyota started using just the v6 rear, and you want to run it go ahead and get it, you need one to build while you run your truck(saves on down time).

Yes, you will need side bearings for the ARB's. The Install kits do not come w/new side bearings since you use your stock carrier. The ARB completely replaces the stock carrier. Keep in mind you will pay about $60 more for a set of V6 bearings(dealer only item at least for my '90 V6) for the 4cyl., when considering trying to find a v6 3rd. Also IIRC, the 2wd V6's use the same 4 pinion 3rd, and should be cheaper since most don't think there is much value to them. All in all you should be fine w/the 4cyl. 3rd, the biggest issue for reliability w/the ARB's is the ability of the person setting them up, make sure to use a shop(if local) that has plenty experience w/the ARB's, not just gears in general. You should also keep an eye Pirate 4x4.com or Marlincrawler.com(forums) for someone parting out a rig w/ARB, you could save yourself some money in the long run.

Thanks for all the info guys. Thats what I needed to know.

As mentioned, you really want to find somebody with ARB install experience to do the ARB. There are seals that are easily nicked and can cause problems down the road. Apparently most ARB problems are install related. When I did mine a few years ago I decided it was best to have the diffs set up by somebody with experience (I used Randy's ring and pinion - but I'm sure there are other places who would be fine). If you are going to pay somebody else to do the setup work anyway, it might as well be a shop that has experience with the setup you want. Use a shop that ARB recommends, that way in the unlikely event you have problems ARB and the shop can sort out if it was a product or install problem.
By the time you buy used diffs, buy gears, bearings, lockers, etc and pay for setup you don't end up saving much if anything by trying to do it locally - and it is not likely the local place has the experience with ARB that the bigger shops have (of course that depends on where you live). Add up the costs and compare for yourself. I decided it was worth an extra $100 or so to have the diffs setup by a shop with experience, and not have to deal with trying to resell my used diffs - just put them back in the box and send them back for a core charge refund. I put a v6 third in the rear - they are a little stronger - maybe not needed but the difference was small. I returned my 4cyl rear (which was a 2 pinion in my truck) to Randy's with no problem (I checked with them first)

If you live where there is mud and water extend your diff breathers - you don't want mud to get in and damage your expensive diff.