Hi, my 22r runs rough. Hard to start, hard to keep running. Stumbles and backfires occasionally. Sounds "funny", popping and ticking. Runs better at hugher RPMs. I got a NEW complete head from Engnbldr; stock head, 268 cam. I installed the head carefully using new head bolts from dealer. New vacume, fuel, coolant, EGR hoses and gaskets. Cleaned the EGR pipe, replaced the EGR valve and Vacume Modulator. Engine has a remanufactered stock carb, Doug Thor head, reman dist w/ vac. advances, and new fuel pump. Adjusted valves according to Haynes manual.

I checked and re-checked using a small screwdriver in the plug hole; the crank is at TDC. The cam is set with the "arrow" at 12 o'clock; the 2 sprocket "dots", also @ 12 o'clock, line up w/ arrow. Had a bit of trouble getting the sprocket on til I realized the chain was loaded up by the tensioner. Then it went smoothly. Chain was a bit loose on the drivers side and tight on the pass side. When I opened it back up after running awhile, it was tight on both sides. Dist has marks from removal on vac advances of where rotor pointed to #1 and is lined up, more or less. There is spark to all 4 plugs, as pulling them 1 at a time either killed the engine or made it run as though it were about to die.

The cam is EPN (whatever that is ?) 268 degrees, 0.425. I don't really know what these numbers mean. Do I need to set the position of the cam relative to the crank/dist differently due to this change from stock? It seems to me that it runs as if it is a tooth off or something like that. I have tried changing the dist. placement by a tooth either way but that doesn't help--it just moves the dist left or right, if you understand me.

Any thoughts or ideas from you all are welcome and appreciated. Thanks from the 49th...Rusty

>>>*First note that the cam timing is correct when at top dead center the cam alignment pin is at 12 O'clock. The actual timing mark will then be slightly left at about the 11:30 position.

Rough running can be caused by many factors but note when installing the head the camshaft MUST be in time with the engine or a valve can be drawn into a piston. This can cause some valves to be slightly bent.

The results are exactly as you describe, so a quick compression test is in order first before trying anything else.

If compression tests normal, then you are looking for vacuum leaks, ignition troubles, timing errors etc.

And "EPN?" That is my company logo, Engine Parts Network, inc.

Give Tod a call at the shop or email if you keep having problems, you have our 268C, that cam design offers very smooth operation when all is correct....*EB....

Hi EB,
I marked everything with an indelible marker before I took it all apart: eccentic, sprocket, chain. I lined the pin up to fit the "before" configuration and checked to ensure piston 1 was @ TDC. The pin was @ 12:00, but I don't know what timing mark you are referring to, that is supposed to be at 1130. Can you clarify? Thnx...Rusty

>>>*If the alignment pin is at 12 O'clock with the engine at TDC you should be good there. The actual top timing mark is on the gear itself, a dot or mark just left of the dowel pin as you face it.

Just covering possible bases, it's best to be sure the foundation is sound before checking out tuning and sensors, etc....*EB

sounds like what I just did only slightly less worse. When I put on my head my adjuster screw got behind the valve and bent it. I ran horribly and better at higher RPM, backfired and what not. I noticed that the spring was compressed and the rocker was loose, the proceeded to used sailor talk<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />. I'm actually surprised it ran at all.

I would take a close look at all your valves and see if one is not in the Down position. They may be functioning but a leak down test will verify if there is air leaking in.

Good luck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />