Alright so my 93 T100 has the 3.0 in it, I would have posted this on the T100 page, but it's really slow over there... So my questions are:

1. Valve cover gaskets are leaking in the back, do I have to grind down the little metal sleeves on the covers before replacing the gaskets? Any other tips while doing it?

2. The motor has 125K on it and I have no idea if the timing belt was ever done.. It sounds like the tensioner arm or one the other pulley bearings are going out/making lots of noise. I got my stethoscope out and couldn't find it though. Should I replace the tensioner while I'm in there as well?

3. Am I missing anything to replace while I got it torn down?

Thank you fellas for your help in advance...

i dont know about the valve cover gaskets, but i would recomend pulling the top plastic timing cover and checking the condition of the belt. it takes a little bit of work, but it's all worth the while if you find that your belt is cracked or damaged, or one of your pulley's are bad.

First thing I would do is check with the service department at a Toyota dealership. Give them the VIN and they can tell you what ever work has been done to it by dealers.

The bearing noise could be the the fan bracket bearing going bad. That piece only purpose if for the fan to spin on. It is an expensive fix and there is no way to just change the bearing, you have to get the whole assembly.

If you need to change the timing belt, check the idler pullys to make sure the are working right and I would replace the water pump.

Here is a link for a 93 pickup FSM, the engine section along will work for you along with some of the other sections.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

im not entirely sure about that. at my dealership, we are only able to put in the vin to check and see if SSC's (Special service campaigns) or TSB's (technical service bulletins) have been completed. other than that, we can only look up work that has been done at our dealership.

I thought it was a nationwide network, OOPS wrong again, that is what I get for thinking !!!!! LOL

I would use FIPG on the outside edge of the valve cover gaskets. The manual doesn't call for any, but they always seem to leak., regardless if you use oem or after market gaskets.

The t-belt is recommended to be changed every 80k, you could still be on the original if the the P.O didn't have work records/log of when service was done.

A valve shim is also likely do as well, and isn't that easy job. If you have the extra $$ I would recommend paying a dealership to do it, since you have to have the right size shim, and buying a bunch and not using them can get pricey, also your local dealership may not have the shims available at the time(in the parts dept.), delaying your finish time.

The water pumps are now only replaced when they start to leak, in the past it was recommended to be change along w/the the t-belt

You might consider relocating the PCV valve from the P-side valve cover to a more user friendly location.

I called the dealership and they told me that the head gasket campaign was done and that was it... They have no other records of service...

I thought that I read somewhere on here in the past that you have to file down the metal spacers on the valve covers where the bolts go through, but again I may be wrong... That's why I asked...

The valve adjustment is out of my league, what does the stealership charge for a valve adjustment? I'm sure it high, but I may have some valves fluttering on the drivers side...

So the consensus on the water pump is to change it when it leaks? I've always replaced it while doing the t-belt... So more than likely I will replace and flush the cooling system.

Relocating the PCV valve will help out in the future replacement I take it????? Do you mind elaborating a little more??

What's everyone's opinion on a transmission flush, the valvoline instant oil change place wants $99.95 to do it.. Is there a DIY procedure on here or should I just drain and re-fill and then drain and re-fill again... By the way its an automatic...

Thanks again to everyone who has responded...

you have NO IDEA how easy that would make things...it would get rid of a lot of hastles, and make findin out what had been done so much easier.

I haven't heard of doing this, though if the replacement gaskets are a little thinner than the oem originals, this could be why so many of the replacement leak, even when using the oem ones.


When my Sister had her T-belt, valve-shim done a few years ago at the dealer it ran her $380, the shim also included new valve cover gaskets. given the amount of work involved, I would think it should run north of $200 for the dealership to just shim the valves. Though even if you had to spend $3-400 to shim the valves it is still cheaper than having to rebuild the heads if you happen to burn one.

This is what I have been told by 3 dealerships now. After the first shop told her she didn't need to change the water pump, I called a few other shops because it was contrary to the manual, and seemed like a no brainer since you have to remove the pump to change the T-belt. Each service writer I talked to told me the same thing, that they had found that the oem water pumps were lasting upwards of 200k before leaking and that they stopped replacing them at the recommended service intervals. They would replace it if the customer wished so, but they seen it as a waste of money.


It is helpful to be able to clean it and check it for proper working condition. The manuel states you can remove/install it with the right tool, but it takes a lot of effort to remove them w/the intake manifold off, so I am not sure ho easy it is to do w/the proper tool. All you have to do is buy a new pcv valve, drill out the old one and attach a longer hose to locate the new valve where you can get to it easier. I believe you need a larger diameter hose and a way to reduce it since the inlet side of the vale is larger than the outlet, I didn't relocate mine when I rebuilt the top end, so i am not sure.

This is probably the cheapest thing to do, and is likely all you would get for your $100 at the local quick-oil-change shop.